Shannon: I have used Battery Tenders for many years. However when Save A Battery came out a few years ago, I noted several possible advantages. Amazon has good pricing. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=save+a+battery&x=0&y=0 1. Gives you a voltage read out when you connect it telling you current status of battery. 2. Has a so called de-sulfate capability. I used it on an Optima battery that I thought was toast. I had run it below 10 volts when working on the air suspension in our 59 Vette and could not get the battery to recover with any charger. Was about to replace it when I decided to hook it in parallel to another 12 volt battery and let it "soak" for a few hours. This did get the battery back to a state of about 11.5 volts,,,but no matter what I did with other chargers,,,some fairly high output, I could not get it back to 12.7 volts which is about full charge. I then hooked it to a newly purchased Save A Battery and within a few hours it was at full charge. Some 2 years later, I am still running this battery in the old Vette. I suspect that the Save A Battery desulfated the plates,,,,Jasinski will know more of the technicals on this,,,,but as noted the battery is fine now. My Battery Tender and my 50 amp charger would not recover it. 3. One of my Battery Tenders (I had 2 of them because of cars and motorcycles) went bad. They offer a so called 10 year warranty. I contacted them,,,but by the time you are done dealing with them,,,its cheaper and less stressful to just forget the warranty and buy a new one,,,or in my case a Save A Battery. Ironically I'm quite content that their service was below par,,,else I'd likely never spent the money for the Save A Battery and missed out on it. 4. Save A Battery has an feature to place a load on the battery to check its capacity and if it may be doomed for near future replacement. This link will give you and pretty good idea what load testing is about. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QiKyjWWiRoOn Dec 21, 2011, at 5:58 PM, LabLoverDC@xxxxxxx wrote: 5. I can't prove it, but I believe that the Save A Battery brings the battery to a higher state of charge. 6. Save A Battery charges at I about double the amps as Battery Tenders,,,therefore recharges a low battery more rapidly. The owner of the company is quite the car collector himself. He lives not that far from me so I see him quite often at various car events. He sets up a retail booth at our 4 times a year Goodguys events in Pleasanton, Ca. This is where I first met him and his product. On the upside for Battery Tender,,,,they did serve me quite well for many years and certainly I believe kept my batteries in our vehicles alive far longer than without them. My 12 year old Jasinki battery likely had 9 years of Battery Tender support. Roger Schaaf 300 B Calyfornua > Hi Roger--Just curious; is there something special about the "Save-A-Battery" chargers over the Battery Tenders? I've never heard of those, and wonder if they are better for some reason. I've used Battery Tenders with good success, but I'm always interested in something better. > > Thanks, > > Shannon > 300 G > > In a message dated 12/21/2011 3:30:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx writes: > Rich's discussion on the clock reminded me of this finding from many years ago. > > My 1971 Corvette if left to sit for longer periods of time, would often experience a dead battery. > > After some research I found that it was the self-winding clock that was causing the battery to go dead(and once completely dead,,,,they never return to normal). > > What occurs is that a electrical impulse is periodically sent to a motor in the clock to wind the spring power source that moves the hands. If this motor should hang up for any reason,,,,which old ones will do, it basically sets up an almost "short" situation where the winding motor is stuck and the electrical impulse just keeps beating against this stuck motor,,,thereby running down the battery. > > Every since this finding, I always disconnect the battery's ground cable for all of my old cars when they are parked for longer periods of time,,,,say one week or more. > > Not only have I never been welcomed to another dead battery,,,,but in conjunction with my Battery Tender chargers,,,,now replaced with Save-A-Battery charger, my batteries now last for many more years than before. > > The current battery in our 71 Vette is well over 8 years old (JC Penny lifetime warranty) and the one in our 300 B,,,a Bob Jasinksi tar top special is gong into likely 12 years or more. > > Also have an Optima in another old car,,,,always disconnect this battery too,,,,you don't want to buy many of these at over 200 bucks a copy > > Also this habit may save your car or home from a burn down someday. > > Roger Schaaf > 300 B > Calyfornua > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Rich Barber > To: 'Bob Ryan' ; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2011 3:44 PM > Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Re: 1955 300 > > There were two basic radios available on the 1955 C-300. The standard radio > "Music Master" (?) with push buttons and a deluxe "Town & Country" radio > that had a bar on the front that when touched, advanced the dial to the next > readable station. Each radio could drive an optional rear-seat speaker. > The T&C Touch-Tone radio could be equipped with a foot-operated switch to > change the stations. I had my T&C radio gone through at a specialty shop in > Sacramento-Ray's Auto Stereo-1925 F St Sacramento, CA 95811-1718 (916) > 447-9753. They have an old-timer in there that has been working on these > old tube-type radios forever. He replaced the old wax capacitors and > polished the faceplate and buttons. They can convert the old radio to a new > AM-FM Stereo/Sirius/Ipad whatever if you wish. Numerous shops advertise > this service in Hemmings Motor News. > > I was able to repair my own electric clock by careful lubing of pivot points > and filing the contact points in the solenoid-powered winder for the > mechanical mechanism. I used a 6-volt lantern battery to power the unit > while working on it at my desk. The clock speed is adjusted by every action > of the knob to move the hands. Moving the hands forward speeds up the > mechanism and vice-versa. There is a small fuse in the line from the power > supply in the dash. A separate wire connects to the light bulbs and is > dimmed with the rest of the dash lights. Again, numerous shops will do this > work for you as advertised in HMN. A watch repair or grandfather clock > repair shop can clean and tune up the clock part if the automatic winder is > working OK. > > Rich Barber > > Brentwood, CA > > From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On > Behalf Of Bob Ryan > Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2011 6:56 AM > To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: [Chrysler300] Re: 1955 300 > > One more question to the group...the radio and clock are inoperative. I > understand there were several radios available from the factory....I am not > familiar with them, so can anyone recommend a source for repairs and a tip > on what I have? > > Thanks again.. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! 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