Re: [Chrysler300] Re: 1955 300
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: [Chrysler300] Re: 1955 300



Roger--Thanks for the info.  We have several Battery Tenders in use,  but 
I'm going to try one of these.  I noticed it got generally great  reviews on 
the Amazon site (including yours ;-))
 
Happy Holidays to all,
 
Shannon
300 G
 
 
In a message dated 12/22/2011 12:29:11 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:

Shannon:   


I have used Battery Tenders for many years.  However when Save A  Battery 
came out a few years ago, I noted several possible advantages.  Amazon has 
good pricing.


_http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keyword
s=save+a+battery&x=0&y=0_ 
(http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=save+a+battery&x=0&y=0) 




1.  Gives you a voltage read out when you connect it telling you  current 
status of battery.


2.  Has a so called de-sulfate capability.  I used it on an  Optima battery 
that I thought was toast.  I had run it below 10 volts  when working on the 
air suspension in our 59 Vette and could not get the  battery to recover 
with any charger.  Was about to replace it when I  decided to hook it in 
parallel to another 12 volt battery and let it "soak"  for a few hours.  This did 
get the battery back to a state of about 11.5  volts,,,but no matter what I 
did with other chargers,,,some fairly high  output, I could not get it back 
to 12.7 volts which is about full charge.  I then hooked it to a newly 
purchased Save A Battery and within a few  hours it was at full charge.  Some 2 
years later, I am still running this  battery in the old Vette.  I suspect 
that the Save A Battery desulfated  the plates,,,,Jasinski will know more of 
the technicals on this,,,,but as  noted the battery is fine now.  My Battery 
Tender and my 50 amp charger  would not recover it.


3.  One of my Battery Tenders (I had 2 of them because of cars and  
motorcycles) went bad.  They offer a so called 10 year warranty.  I  contacted 
them,,,but by the time you are done dealing with them,,,its cheaper  and less 
stressful to just forget the warranty and buy a new one,,,or in my  case a 
Save A Battery.  Ironically I'm quite content that their service  was below 
par,,,else I'd likely never spent the money for the Save A Battery  and missed 
out on it.


4.  Save A Battery has an feature to place a load on the battery to  check 
its capacity and if it may be doomed for near future replacement.  This link 
will give you and pretty good idea what load testing is  about.



 
_http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QiKyjWWiRo_ 
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QiKyjWWiRo) On  Dec 21, 2011, at 5:58 PM, LabLoverDC@xxxxxxx wrote:


5.  I can't prove it, but I believe that the Save A Battery brings  the 
battery to a higher state of charge.


6.  Save A Battery charges at I about double the amps as Battery  
Tenders,,,therefore recharges a low battery more rapidly.


The owner of the company is quite the car collector himself.  He  lives not 
that far from me so I see him quite often at various car events.  He sets 
up a retail booth at our 4 times a year Goodguys events in  Pleasanton, Ca.  
This is where I first met him and his product.


On the upside for Battery Tender,,,,they did serve me quite well for many  
years and certainly I believe kept my batteries in our vehicles alive far  
longer than without them.  My 12 year old Jasinki battery likely had 9  years 
of Battery Tender support.


Roger Schaaf
300 B
Calyfornua











Hi Roger--Just curious; is there something special about the  
"Save-A-Battery" chargers over the Battery Tenders?  I've never heard  of those, and 
wonder if they are better for some reason.  I've used  Battery Tenders with good 
success, but I'm always interested in something  better.
 
Thanks,
 
Shannon
300 G
 
 
In a message dated 12/21/2011 3:30:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
_obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxxx (mailto:obiwan10@xxxxxxxxxxx)  writes:

 
 
 
Rich's discussion on the clock reminded me of this finding from many  years 
ago.

My 1971 Corvette if left to sit for longer periods of  time, would often 
experience a dead battery.

After some research I  found that it was the self-winding clock that was 
causing the battery to  go dead(and once completely dead,,,,they never return 
to  normal).

What occurs is that a electrical impulse is periodically  sent to a motor 
in the clock to wind the spring power source that moves  the hands. If this 
motor should hang up for any reason,,,,which old ones  will do, it basically 
sets up an almost "short" situation where the  winding motor is stuck and 
the electrical impulse just keeps beating  against this stuck motor,,,thereby 
running down the battery.

Every  since this finding, I always disconnect the battery's ground cable 
for all  of my old cars when they are parked for longer periods of 
time,,,,say one  week or more.

Not only have I never been welcomed to another dead  battery,,,,but in 
conjunction with my Battery Tender chargers,,,,now  replaced with Save-A-Battery 
charger, my batteries now last for many more  years than before.

The current battery in our 71 Vette is well over  8 years old (JC Penny 
lifetime warranty) and the one in our 300 B,,,a Bob  Jasinksi tar top special 
is gong into likely 12 years or more.

Also  have an Optima in another old car,,,,always disconnect this battery  
too,,,,you don't want to buy many of these at over 200 bucks a  copy

Also this habit may save your car or home from a burn down  someday.

Roger Schaaf
300 B
Calyfornua
----- Original  Message ----- 
From: Rich Barber 
To: 'Bob Ryan' ; _Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
(mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx)   
Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2011 3:44 PM
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300]  Re: 1955 300

There were two basic radios available on the 1955  C-300. The standard radio
"Music Master" (?) with push buttons and a  deluxe "Town & Country" radio
that had a bar on the front that when  touched, advanced the dial to the 
next
readable station. Each radio  could drive an optional rear-seat speaker.
The T&C Touch-Tone radio  could be equipped with a foot-operated switch to
change the stations. I  had my T&C radio gone through at a specialty shop  
in
Sacramento-Ray's Auto Stereo-1925 F St Sacramento, CA 95811-1718  (916)
447-9753. They have an old-timer in there that has been working  on these
old tube-type radios forever. He replaced the old wax  capacitors and
polished the faceplate and buttons. They can convert the  old radio to a new
AM-FM Stereo/Sirius/Ipad whatever if you wish.  Numerous shops advertise
this service in Hemmings Motor News.

I  was able to repair my own electric clock by careful lubing of pivot  
points
and filing the contact points in the solenoid-powered winder for  the
mechanical mechanism. I used a 6-volt lantern battery to power the  unit
while working on it at my desk. The clock speed is adjusted by  every action
of the knob to move the hands. Moving the hands forward  speeds up the
mechanism and vice-versa. There is a small fuse in the  line from the power
supply in the dash. A separate wire connects to the  light bulbs and is
dimmed with the rest of the dash lights. Again,  numerous shops will do this
work for you as advertised in HMN. A watch  repair or grandfather clock
repair shop can clean and tune up the clock  part if the automatic winder is
working OK.

Rich  Barber

Brentwood, CA

From: _Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx)   
[mailto:_Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) ] 
 On
Behalf Of Bob Ryan
Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2011 6:56  AM
To: _Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) 
Subject:  [Chrysler300] Re: 1955 300

One more question to the group...the  radio and clock are inoperative. I
understand there were several radios  available from the factory....I am not
familiar with them, so can  anyone recommend a source for repairs and a tip
on what I  have?

Thanks again..

[Non-text portions of this message have  been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been  removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been  removed]










=


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or
go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button

For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm

For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/

<*> Your email settings:
    Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join
    (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
    Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
    Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



Home Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network Archive Sitemap


Copyright © The Forward Look Network. All rights reserved.

Opinions expressed in posts reflect the views of their respective authors.
This site contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated.