RE: [Chrysler300] "F" hood release

[christopher beilby <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Rich raises a good point as to whether one/any grub screw would hold a steel wire in the original release handle - I would have thought it would if drill wire out with right size drill/hole.
 
So I see the two most possible problems 1) drilling out the hard steel original wire, and now 2) would grub screw hold wire in a car with real stiff/hard hood release.
 
So is there maybe an already known '300 helpful' semi professional/competent person, supply/changeover  business, that maybe can do a couple of trials to see if they able to drill out wire so it exactly still centred, plus if grub screw holds until wire tension so great wire breaks. (there are 2 possible US businesses/names I know of well known already to many US 300 owners?!
 
If they set themselves up with some easy way (simple holding jig?) to drill out orig wire, do grub screw hole, plus source need new wire, it could be simple for Members to just mail handle off to the them with needed dollars, get rebuilt one back say week or so later?!  Car is not going to miss an 'unworking handle' for the needed week, if it already busted/broke ?!
 
Christopher in southern Australia - cold enough nights already last days of Easter for mid winter here, yet it only early autumn 

 

> From: c300@xxxxxxx
> To: thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx; finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; mr300f@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] "F" hood release
> Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 10:47:44 -0700
> 
> A reasonable approach. I can't imagine a set screw (grub screw?) or even
> several holding the new wire in the handle. I'm guessing the original
> handle is diecast around a loop or hook in the end of the wire to avoid
> pullout. 
> 
> But, since the latch works in tension, perhaps cutting 6" or a foot off the
> hood end of the existing assembly and adding a solid or braided wire
> extension to the end would achieve the desired result. One end of the
> extension would be attached to a new loop in the end of the original cable
> and the other end would be attached to the latch lever.
> 
> Rich Barber
> 1955 Chrysler C-300 No problem with hood latch--hood is open to the public.
> The world's record for hot wiring a '55 is probably about ten seconds. I
> use a bicycle lock to tie the hood down when parked in questionable areas.
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of christopher beilby
> Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 6:38 AM
> To: Dave Swa300US; mr300f@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] "F" hood release
> 
> 
> My suggestion would be unless someone is likely to remanufacture a new
> complete chrome release handle with new wire in it, would be:
> 1) to remove handle with what left of steel wire cable attached (by pulling
> it from inside cabin/car)
> 2) cut off remaing steel wire, lightly grind what left of it sticking out of
> chrome so it now flush,
> 3) drill wire size hole into the remains of original steel wire (need to be
> careful as chrome part is a softer diecast?!)
> 4) buy any car or farm machinery long choke or throttle cable setup that has
> a long enough high quality same diameter steel wire - cut/pull wire out,
> throw rest away.
> 5) on lower side of chrome pull handle, drill grub screw hole over mid part
> of 1st drill hole just made for original/new steel wire, tap/thread grub
> screw hole.
> 6) insert new steel pull wire into 1st drilled steel wire hole, fit/lock
> grub screw into grub hole, so it now holds new steel wire in.
> 7) get back in cabin of car, start/thread end of new steel wire into dash
> fitting until chrome release is fully in/home - go to front of car, cut
> excess length off, lock into release mechanism as per original.
> 
> (a) Any one else got a simpler alternative - at least this way you do not
> have to remove the chrome dash surround/mount - which is a real brain
> stress/test try to refit securing screws from back of 300F/similar dash
> shell.
> (PLUS NEXT TIME WIRE BREAKS, just unscrew grub screw, fit new wire in maybe
> less than 5 mins - grub screw can be real small, flush slot head, not seen
> by anyone except those who know why it done??!!)
> (b) As I and likely many others are still waiting for 300C/D/D door armrest
> bases which are likely way beter/higher volume seller after many promising
> starts, I doubt anyone is going to tool up real soon making complete new F
> etc hood release handles with needed steel wire cables ?!
> 
> Christopher in Australia
> 
> 
> 
> To: mr300f@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> From: finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 16:50:13 -0500
> Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] "F" hood release
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some one needs to find a fix for this.
> I am in the same boat having to "stick it" every time I want to get under
> the hood.
> Anyone know of a way to replace the wire in an existing cable assly. By the
> way, mine was an NOS unit when I installed it back in '85.
> 
> Dave Schwandt
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of Neal Thomas
> Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2012 4:37 PM
> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [Chrysler300] "F" hood release
> 
> I have received a few suggestions of how to open the hood until a fix is
> done. The fix I came up with was a wooden paint stick. It is long enough,
> sturdy enough and won't scratch the paint. Sliding it in the small space
> between the hood and grille, it works great. I carry that in my tool box.
> But with the cable so tight, it doesn't look right and I figure I'm on
> borrowed time. The next time it will be too short.
> Neal
> 
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