Re: [Chrysler300] Torque Converter Drainback / Leaky Tranny (Again)

[Bill Huff <czbill@xxxxxxxxxx>]

That is true, I wrote to the original poster that 
they may or may not work on the cast iron transmission.

On the 727 the throttle shaft seal is all rubber 
and is easy to pick out and replace by hand.  The 
shifter shaft seal is not easy and has a metal 
body, that is what this tool is for.  On the cast 
iron transmission, the throttle body seal looks 
in pictures like the 727 shifter seal.  I am not 
where I can get to my transmissions, so that's as 
far as my knowledge goes at this point.

Bill Huff


At 4/12/201204:37 PM, Don Verity wrote:
>
>
>Both these transmissions are cast iron 
>torqueflites, not 727's which this tool is for.
>Don
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Bill Huff
>To: John Nowosacki ; Terry Mctaggart
>Cc: <mailto:chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2012 4:23 PM
>Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Torque Converter Drainback / Leaky Tranny (Again)
>
><http://www.costplustools.com/Atec-T-1031-A-Chrysler-Shift-Selector-Shaft-Seal-Remover-Installer-_p_9289.html>http://www.costplustools.com/Atec-T-1031-A-Chrysler-Shift-Selector-Shaft-Seal-Remover-Installer-_p_9289.html
>
>http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/T-1031-A.html
>
>At 4/12/201203:31 PM, John Nowosacki wrote:
> >I had a somewhat crazy idea as to how to deal with this for my G.
> >I also took the car to my local tranny shop, but after 5 days there was
> >still no leak.
> >I know that over the course of a winter, almost a quart of fluid will leak
> >out as the TC drains back into the pan, so I did the following:
> >I warmed up the car and made sure the fluid level was at the right level
> >for the vehicle.
> >We then put the car up on the lift and let it sit for one day. No leaks.
> >I then proceeded to add an 'extra' quart of tranny fluid thru the dipstick
> >tube, simulating a 'fast' TC drain back into the pan.
> >That increased the level enough so I could see that the fluid was coming
> >out around the kick down shaft as there isn't much of a seal there (at
> >least in my car).
> >Once that source was found, fluid was drained back to the correct level.
> >The bad news is that I have yet to drop the pan, valve body, etc. to
> >install some kind of bushing or seal around the shaft because it is
> >running well and I don't want to mess anything up, but I think it did
> >successfully reveal the source of the leak.
> >
> >On Thu, Apr 12, 2012 at 2:22 PM, Terry 
> Mctaggart <<mailto:terrymct999%40yahoo.com>terrymct999@xxxxxxxxx>wrote:
> >
> > > **
> > >
> > >
> > > A couple of weeks ago I took my 300F to a local transmission shop to
> > > attempt to cure the titled problems. The manager is an old car guy (he
> > > owns a 60 Caddy) and was familiar with the problem. He kept the car in a
> > > bay for two weeks and wouldn't you know, 
> the old beast didn't leak a drop,
> > > so the shop didn't want to tear into it with no obvious symptions. Can't
> > > blame them. But the manager did suggest a potential solution. He said he
> > > could put a one-way valve in one of the 
> cooling lines, and that this would
> > > prevent converter drain back. He said that some later model Dodges had
> > > this valve installed at the factory to prevent this situation from
> > > occuring. Has anybody out there heard of this solution, and are there any
> > > opinions on whether it would work? Terry McTaggart in Dayton Oh.
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
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>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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