Re: [Chrysler300] 300 brake troubles
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Re: [Chrysler300] 300 brake troubles



I don't know the differences in the brake systems between the F and the 
C, but I have to say that the front only conversion worked without a 
hitch on my C.  The Dart discs are a darn sight better than the drums 
ever were in so many ways.  Out in the Lake George area last fall, with 
all those fantastic winding roads, our car had more fun than it ever had 
before in its life - largely because of its better braking capability.

One method that really worked out slick in setting the proportioning 
valve on the C was that we first went out in the mowed field behind my 
plant.  Using about 250 feet of runway, we repeatedly did bursts to 
something like 30mph and nailed the brakes.  My helper would reach under 
the car after each of the runs to tweak the proportioning valve, and 
then I'd back up to make another trial run.  I'd say we probably did 
this around 20 times before we had all four locking at the same time.

After that we moved onto the concrete pavement to see how we liked the 
skid there.  If I recall correctly, we found we had to then back off off 
on the rears just a smidge, and after only about 3 or 4 runs on the 
pavement we liked what we had.  I can stand the car on its grill now.

Keith Boonstra

-

On 5/21/2012 9:47 PM, Paul Martin wrote:
>
> I spent most of the afternoon doing the fine tuning on my brake 
> conversion and am happy with the results.
>
> My observations are that the disc brakes while an improvement over 
> drums, are designed for a lighter car. Roger outlines that the rotors 
> are from a 76 Valient/dart, a car that weights 600-800 lbs lighter 
> than the 300. Disc brakes from the later C bodies likely do the job 
> better. they have a bigger surface. the bonus with this setup on my 
> 300F will be lack of brake fade. To use the bigger brakes you have to 
> do a wheel tire conversion.
>
> In doing the final adjustments I had to set a specific adjustment of 
> the master cyl rod. I did not use the stock rod as it would no go deep 
> enough into the supplied MC. I used a rod from a conversion kit I got 
> for my Dodge Charger from Master Power Brakes. . If you use the stock 
> rod you will need to grind down the circumference at the tip and 
> adjust for the right length. There should be about 1/16 clearance 
> between the free swinging pedal and the end of the rod as it enters 
> the MC bore. This is not an exact measurement as there is no room for 
> a feeler gauge. I had to do some adjusting on the power booster 
> trigger pivot as well. This adjustment is outlined in the service manual.
>
> One thing that may need some adjustment is the supplied proportioning 
> valve. To date I cannot get the rear brakes to lock up. Test stopping 
> has been limited to 20 mph stops. One lockup is achieved the prop 
> valve needs to be set to eliminate the lockup. If anyone has insight 
> on this adjustment chime in here. Right now mine is set to almost full 
> increase which I am assuming means max pressure to the rear brakes. 
> Later this week I am going to get the car out on the road for some 
> 30-40mph stops and see if lockup is achieved...adjustment to follow.
>
> Paul
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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