Mark, You need to arc the shoes to the drum. The toe of the shoe will "catch/snag the drum and have a tendancy to "wrap up" inside and lock. Been there, done that with the fronts on my F years ago, after plowing a furrow through a judging tent at a show in Des Moines, IA. Very embarrassing to say the least. It took several cycles of removing the shoes and sanding with 80 grit paper on a body file to remedy the situation. I would pat down the shoes w/talcum powder, reinstall and adjust then rotate a few times by hand. While cranking the adjusters the proper direction. This will indicate on the shoes any high spots that need attention You probably already know this but the fronts adjust different than the rears. Check your service manual for the proper adjustment procedure. Question, Did you install ne return springs when doing the rebuild? Good Luck!! Dave Schwandt -----Original Message----- From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of MARK HOPKINS Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 5:37 PM To: Rich Barber Cc: Narve Nordanger; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [Chrysler300] 300F Brake Issue Hi Rich, Narve and fellow 300 Club folks - I'm catching up on emails and read your advice to Narve about his problem with the '55 brakes with interest. Does the same principle apply to the brake pedal adjustment in the '60 300F? In the past two months, I've replaced all the wheel cylinders front and back, front brake shoes were relined and drums turned, wheel bearings packed, and a right rear axle seal replaced. It stops straight and true with no pulling. However, since before all the work was done, the rear brakes have intermittently locked up at low speeds (eg. when pulling in and out of the garage). If I try to go forward, they drag / skid. Despite all the new brake / wheel work, the lockup problem persists. If I shift into Neutral and back to Drive they'll release, but may lock up as soon as I push the pedal again. Out on the road, if I come to a stop from 30 mph at a light for example, there is no lockup thankfully. It's just a pain moving in and out of the garage, and somewhat embarrassing parking at car shows. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Mark Hopkins in sunny Calgary (our summers really are nice up here - just too short!) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx> To: "Narve Nordanger" <narve.n@xxxxxxx>, Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 2:20:22 PM Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] A serious 55 Kelsey Hayes issue - brake failure Narve: I know you are a thorough guy, but the clearance on the actuating rod from the brake pedal to the back of the booster is critical. In theory, retraction of the rod when the pedal is released should allow atmospheric pressure to flow back into the vacuum side of the booster. If the pedal is returned by spring pressure, it should retract the actuator rod. There is a small check valve in the outlet of the master cylinder that is designed to hold a small amount of residual pressure on the system in order to exclude moist air. That small check valve may have been damaged or improperly installed. Other things to check include the check valve on the vacuum inlet line. Progress was made over the years. The brake pedal in the '55 is now wide enough to get both feet on it. Rich Barber Brentwood, CA 1955 C-300 From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ] On Behalf Of Narve Nordanger Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 12:33 PM To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [Chrysler300] A serious 55 Kelsey Hayes issue - brake failure Group, my C-300 has twice this summer had failure on its freshly overhauled brake system. On both occasions the Kelsey Hayes master power brake appear to lock up and not letting out the vacuum after I have released the brake pedal. Brakes stayed locked until I split the master cylinder from the booster. Anyone seen this before, any remedy? Additional information: The lightest of touches on the brake pedal sucks it in and make immediate contact on the shoes, making progressive braking a difficulty. This was evident both with the old (original) and overhauled (x-55 De Soto) K-H MC. Having just gone through the brakes on 29 Chrysler one really wonders if there was any progress at all in the intervening 26 years.. Narve N C-300 in Norway [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! Groups Links ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/