RE: [Chrysler300] recasting a steering wheel

[Bill Huff <czbill@xxxxxxxxxx>]

A question...why urethane resin as opposed to epoxy?

Bill Huff




At 11/22/201211:10 AM, Ray Melton wrote:
>
>
>Yeah, but OMG! It cost what, $1,500? I donâ??t 
>begrudge those high-end artists for their 
>consummate skill and the money they get for it, 
>but many of us donâ??t have the resources to 
>devote such $$$$! to that singular item among 
>all the other competing demands of restoration.
>
>I am currently restoring the typically cracked 
>steering wheel from my late fatherâ??s 1957 
>300C, but I will NOT be re-casting the entire 
>wheel (only the light-colored part was cracked) 
>? I will be using modern hhigh-quality Lord 
>Fusor urethane resins, cleaners, primers and 
>paints (as recommended by others intimately 
>involved in the business of restoring urethane 
>parts) to â??puttyâ?? up the cracks, then sand 
>to correct finger-groove contour, coat with the 
>special recommended primer, then go for probably 
>two coats of ivory-beige color, followed by 
>several coats of urethane clear coat. No, it 
>will not be a complete re-cast of the whole 
>wheel (the lower black part was essentially 
>perfect), and it will not be done in one evening 
>(but I can work long hours on the cheap for 
>myself, and have only myself to complain about 
>if Iâ??m dissatisfied! And I can re-do and re-do 
>until I am satisfied or go insane!) I will be 
>doing all the work of grinding out and enlarging 
>the cracks with my Dremel tool, mixing the 
>dozens and dozens of small, two-minute pot-life 
>batches of urethane resin to putty into each 
>individual crack; then, when all are filled and 
>hardened, re-contouring the finger-grooves by 
>hand and sanding to final contour and 
>smoothness. I will leave the final priming, 
>color-painting and clear-coating to the expert 
>at my local body shop, who has agreed to 
>complete that part of the job for $75.00. I 
>expect to have less than $200 invested in the 
>entire job (all the materials are in hand for 
>less than $90.00) ?? but will spend a bit on 
>different grades of sandpaper, in addition to a 
>few bucks for several new bits for the Dremel to 
>clean out all the hundreds of cracks.
>
>I am taking pictures along the way, and when 
>finished, I will post the exact part numbers, 
>sources and costs for each of the ingredients 
>needed, as well as incremental progress photos 
>along the way. No, I wonâ??t have an absolutely 
>gorgeous $1,500 totally re-cast steering wheel, 
>but I expect to have a really great-looking 
>wheel for a very modest investment (not counting 
>my own labor with a dozen hours grinding, 
>sanding, cleaning and re-contouring along the 
>way!) And I will want it to withstand scrutiny 
>from barely 25.4mm away! At least, I think it 
>will be worth the investment for those of us who 
>canâ??t afford the total mega-buck re-cast, and 
>can take some satisfaction in doing some of the 
>simple handiwork on our own cars along the way.
>
>And of course, if my own job comes out crummy, 
>you can bet youâ??ll never hear about it again!
>
>Ray Melton
>
>1957 Chrysler 300C convertible
>
>White/Gauguin
>
>S/N 3N572517
>
>From: 
><mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
>[mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Steve Simon
>Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 10:48 PM
>To: Rich Barber
>Cc: Leona Aumann; 
><<mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] recasting a steering 
>wheel for a 1961 300g can someone tell me of a good place to have this done.
>
>I had Dennis restore my G steering wheel and it came out great.
>
>Thanks,
>Steve Simon
>Sent from my iPad
>
>On Nov 21, 2012, at 7:31 PM, "Rich Barber" 
><<mailto:c300%40ez2.net>c300@xxxxxxx <mailto:c300%40ez2.net> > wrote:
>
> > Dennis Crook is highly regarded. I have no personal experience with him.
> > 
> <http://www.qualityrestorations.com/>http://www.qualityrestorations.com/ 
> Click on Chrysler.
> >
> > You can do a Google search on "steering wheel restoration" for other shops
> > and a number of presentations on do-it-yourself kits. Good luck, whichever
> > way you go.
> >
> > Rich Barber
> >
> > Brentwood, CA
> >
> >
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or
go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button

For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm

For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/

<*> Your email settings:
    Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join
    (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
    Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
    Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/