[Chrysler300] RE: Penetrating Oils

[Ray Melton <rfmelton@xxxxxxx>]

Hello Mark -

 

I have long used the 50/50 acetone/ATF method for easing the removal of
barrels from the receivers of the WWII rifles I often restore.  It's easy to
immerse the receiver/barrel joint in a tall jug like a cut-off Coke bottle
for several days to let the low viscosity and surface tension of the acetone
carry the ATF lubricant into the joint.  However, I'm not so sure how to
keep the very volatile acetone part of the mix around long enough to be
really effective in a non-immersion situation, like most of our "corroded
nut" applications, especially in a vertical or inverted position.   

 

While the plastic 2-liter Coke bottle worked fine for me with immersion
times up to a month (adding acetone every couple of days to replenish that
lost to evaporation), I'm sure that metal or glass would be even better for
storage - you can keep it capped to minimize evaporation of the acetone.
Obviously, the only time you can be sure you have a 50/50 ratio is when you
first mix it up; the acetone evaporates pretty quickly if left open
thereafter.  On the other hand, I doubt that the exact 50/50 ratio is
significant at all - you just need enough acetone to thin out the
higher-viscosity ATF and carry it into the threads.

 

Perhaps an even better method might combine acetone with the Gibbs product
to get the probably superior Gibbs stuff even farther into the threads.

 

Ray Melton

1957 300C convertible

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Mark Souders
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2012 1:04 PM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Fwd: Penetrating Oils


I'm into "home brew" stuff....So tell me, If I mix up a batch of acetone and
ATF, what type of container can it safely be stored in? For example, can it
be stored in an old spray bottle like a Windex pump bottle or must it be
kept in something other than plastic, like a metal lacquer thinner can?

Mark Souders
300H
Mohrsville, PA

-----Original Message-----
From: JettLarry <JettLarry@xxxxxxx <mailto:JettLarry%40aol.com> >
To: chrysler300 <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> >
Sent: Wed, Nov 28, 2012 8:47 pm
Subject: [Chrysler300] Fwd: Penetrating Oils

Find this of great interest and will test it on a well rusted 300K ram
engine in 
he back yard.

ettlarry@xxxxxxx <mailto:ettlarry%40aol.com>  Larry Jett 510-794 7911 Newark
CA

----Original Message-----
rom: Robert Higday <bob.higday@xxxxxxx <mailto:bob.higday%40phc.net> >
ent: Wed, Nov 28, 2012 1:04 pm
ubject: Penetrating Oils

Just some interesting information to us that still mess around with a wrench
and 
liers at times...John

enetrating Oils 

achinist's Workshop magazine recently published some information on various 
enetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate 
his. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on
rusted 
uts. 

hey are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist.
They 
rranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control
being 
he torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" 
nvironment. 

Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen* 

o Oil used ...................516 pounds 
D-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds 
B Blaster .................... 214 pounds 
iquid Wrench ...............127 pounds 
ano Kroil .................... 106 pounds 
TF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds 

he ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission
fluid 
nd acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial 
roduct in this one particular test. 

ur local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally

ood results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for

bout 20% of the price. 

teve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also
use 
TF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix. 
ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid

obert Higday
edwood Region Webmaster
ttp://CHVARedwoodRegion.org
ob.higday@xxxxxxx <mailto:ob.higday%40phc.net> 
10-745-7624

Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------------------------------
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
hrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:hrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> 
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:bob%40simplexco.com>  or
o to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the
"Leave 
roup" button
For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
For archives go to
http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! 
roups Links
Individual Email | Traditional
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or
go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button

For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm

For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/

<*> Your email settings:
    Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join
    (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
    Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
    Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/