Fw: [Chrysler300] Ignition Cables - Pertronix

["C Bilter" <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx>]

From: C Bilter 
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 5:55 PM
To: Rich Barber 
Cc: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Ignition Cables - Pertronix

Several responses have been made already and I noted some conflicting information in those responses.  I’ve addressed this in past posts.   Re. the Pertronix Ignitor Rich is asking about a Ram K which is the same as the J.  You use an Ignitor I module.  The best deal on that unit is from John Lazenby, and we should support his business regardless (IMHO).  Follow the instructions.  You do not connect the red wire to pos. on the coil.  You connect the red wire via an extension wire and splice in at the full 12v ignition source going to the ballast resistor.  You might want to use a connector that you can disconnect if ever needed for testing or replacement.  You leave the ballast resistor in the circuit, just as stated in the instructions, and then it looks more stock as well.   The Ignitor will fire down to about 8v, but is designed to run at the full 12v+.  The black wire goes to the neg. on the coil.  You can use a stock coil of at least 1.5 ohms. The failure rate on the CURRENT Ignitor modules itself is not high.   The failure rate is high only on bad installations.   I spoke about this in detail with the tech experts at Pertronix.  John L can put you in touch if needed.   Here are some common situations that will kill the Pertronix quickly or shorten its life. 

1) Leaving the ignition key “on” with the engine off when the engine is in a position analogous to “points closed.”
2) Using a low resistance performance coil
3) Reversing polarity when wiring
4) Low voltage such as connecting the red wire to the pos. on the coil with the ballast resistor in the circuit.  Or a weak/dead battery.
5) Bad ground between the breaker plate on which the Ignitor mounts in the distributor and the battery negative terminal.  It won’t kill the Ignitor but it simply won’t function.

Before you start up, check voltage and spark (I crank the engine and use a timing light).  Expect to reset your timing, perhaps fairly drastically on the J/Ram K. 
Re. ignition cables, the Ignitor will work with solid core wires, at least until the wires start going bad, but it is advisable to use radio suppression wire for all types of electronic ignition modules. 

300ly, 
Carl B 


From: Rich Barber 
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 7:58 PM
To: 'Ronald Kurtz' ; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Ignition Cables/Sure Grip or not?

  
I'm also curious as to whether the Petronix system starts on 12 V and runs
on lower voltage fed through the ignition resistor-or just a full 12 V at
all times?

Second question: How does one check for a Sure-Grip differential in a
non-op car? With one rear wheel jacked up and the tranny in neutral should
the jacked-up wheel turn freely or lock up? With both rear wheels jacked
up, does turning one wheel cause the other to rotate in the same or reverse
direction?

Rich Barber

From: mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ronald Kurtz
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 1:31 PM
To: mailto:chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Chrysler300] Ignition Cables

Hello, everyone:

What is the best ignition cable and coil to use with a Petronix Flamethrower

distributor? I am thinking about upgrading my ignition system.

Best,
Ron Kurtz
E #292

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