Re: [Chrysler300] Air cleaner/valve cover paint color codes

[2HsandaHeritage@xxxxxxxxxxx]

Henry, 

Thanks for the information. 

The paint on the 1973 Mercedes Benz in Byzantine Gold looks very close to the original 300H air cleaner color. 

I may give it a try. 

Doug Warrener  



----- Original Message -----




From: "Henry Schleimer" <henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 6:43:29 AM 
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Air cleaner/valve cover paint color codes 

  




A couple of years ago when I had my air cleaners and covers painted, advice 
from some club members was to use Mercedes Benz Byzantine Gold colour from 
the 1970's. I'm surprised no one has mentioned this in this (and other) 
threads. 

Did that and they look terrific. My car isn't going in a museum so close is 
good enough for me. It isn't a bright gold - which is good. Here is a link 
to an advertised car that is pretty much how it turned out. 

http://bringatrailer.com/2011/03/24/bat-exclusive-1973-mercedes-benz-450se/ 

This may suit others who just want to tell their painter a known colour. 
Might be even able to get it in a rattle can. 

Regards 

Henry 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ] On 
Behalf Of Ray Melton 
Sent: Friday, 19 April 2013 6:14 AM 
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
Subject: [Chrysler300] Air cleaner/valve cover paint color codes 

Hello All - 

I recently had the air cleaners and valve covers for my 1957 Chrysler 300C 
repainted in what I believe to be the correct shade and gloss level as 
originally supplied. On the back side of the oval ends of the air cleaner 
housings, I found what I am certain was the original Chrysler color, 
untouched by previous owners who had painted the exterior only. I had a 
local paint and body shop match the old paint color by trial and error until 
I was completely satisfied with the color - when the custom mix was sprayed 
right on top of a masked portion of the original paint, I could hardly see 
the transition. The parts were painted with a urethane primer, sanded, 
then two coats of the urethane color base coat, followed by a clear coat 
with approximately 50% flattening agent to give a satin gloss level. The 
final outcome was a tint slightly more silvery and less reddish-gold than 
the Plasti-kote #452 that had previously been applied, and with a more 
subtle satin gloss, rather than a too-bright high-gloss. 

However, since the color matching was a multi-step trial-and-error process 
(add a little green and silver here, take out some red there, add more 
black, etc.) there was not an easy way for the painter to replicate the 
color for future applications, either by myself or someone else. So, I took 
the finished pieces to my local paint specialty shop and had them analyze 
the color using a special hand-held electronic color matching device. In 
less than five minutes, they were able to come up with the formula for 
tinting, and I thought I would share that with other interested members. 

The starting point for the color base coat was one pint DuPont Chromabase 
clear. I don't know what all the numbers and letters mean, but your own 
paint specialty person will! Also note that a urethane-compatible primer 
must be applied before the color coat. 

259663 K CC: M CHROMABASE BC Alt: (EUR) 

Daewoo - 67U 

Mix size: 16.0 oz. (pint) 

Tinting Guide: Formula #259663 

882J LS yelo oxide 27.1 (I was told this 
means YELLOW) 

811J Med aluminum 45.4 

891J Transox Red 62.1 

819J Fine bright aluminum 69.8 

806J HS Black 75.5 

833J Green Gold 79.0 

1005S Gold Pearl 89.6 

1009S Super Green PL 95.2 (I was told the "PL" 
means PEARL) 

150K B/C Balancer 317.1 

175K Binder 444.5 

The top coat was DuPont Chromabase clear, with ~50% flattening agent to 
yield a satin gloss level. Not being an automotive painter myself, I was 
shocked at the price for this base coat/clear coat paint: the base coat 
alone was $112 for one pint, plus a few bucks more for the activator! On 
the other hand, the guy who painted my parts mixed up only 8 ounces of color 
base coat, and there was still some left over after applying two coats of 
color, so that would be only ~$56.00 for a half-pint of the color coat. I 
didn't ask about the cost for the clear top coat, but it will be 
considerably less. I had the parts stripped and bead-blasted by another 
place ($55.00 - and careful NOT to strip the inner surfaces of the oval air 
cleaner end pieces to preserve for subsequent color-matching!) before taking 
them to the automotive body/paint shop -- the final charge for priming, 
sanding and painting the two air cleaner housings and both valve covers was 
$280.00. 

Note: I've had no need to try out this formula myself, since my parts are 
already painted, but if you decide to go with the formula above, you might 
want to do a bit of custom color-matching yourself: do a test shot on a few 
square inches of a smooth metal surface (tin can lid?) and see how you like 
it, then add/subtract tint components to fine-tune to your personal 
preference. 

Hope this helps some of you out there, so you won't have to go through the 
somewhat tedious trial-and-error approach that I did. 

Ray Melton 

Las Cruces, NM 

1957 Chrysler 300C convertible white/Gauguin 

3N572517 

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