Re: [Chrysler300] Conflicted viewpoint: body paint gloss level for 1957 300C

[Ryan Hill <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I have to agree with Don, trying to add gloss to an old paint job by topping it with a modern clear coat will likely become problematic in terms of the balance between adhesion and overall appearance. I'm not certain by your comments that the car is still wearing all of it's original factory paint or if it has a very old repaint; either way, if it looks better than factory as you describe, I'd leave it alone. (Especially if it's factory and has survived well) 

If you want the over-restored, high gloss, non-original appearance paint; you really should be removing all of the thick enamel and starting from bare metal again anyway. Someone really interested in a restored car would never want base/clear paint, it just looks wrong and is wrong. You're right though, there are lots of buyers out there that like the gleam coming from more than just the chrome. 

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-04-22, at 5:51 AM, "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx> wrote:

> Putting a clear coat over what I presume is 57 year old paint would probably not be a good idea. You can’t put a coat of clear on a perfectly polished paint surface and expect it to stay put. The cars with the super shiny paint were probably painted completely with a base coat/clear coat style paint. Yours would have to be sanded some to get the clear to stick, and the result might not be as good as a complete job. I would keep the correct paint if you like it, and leave well enough alone. 
> Don Verity
> 
> From: Ray Melton 
> Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 2:26 AM
> To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Conflicted viewpoint: body paint gloss level for 1957 300C
> 
> Hello Group -
> 
> I am pretty deep into restoring my late father's 1957 Chrysler 300C
> convertible, and am encountering an emotional conflict regarding gloss level
> to attain on the Gauguin Red exterior paint. All the exterior trim is still
> off and now is the time to decide what to do with the underlying body color
> paint. The body is almost perfectly straight and the old alkyd enamel was
> apparently applied very thick; it has easily withstood color-sanding to
> remove any original orange-peel and attain a smoothness and gloss level
> never achieved by the factory on even its best day. It buffed out
> brilliantly and looks great; however, I know that a few layers of a modern
> color-sanded clear overcoat could bring it up to an extra-deep 2013
> high-gloss level even better than it is now. I am totally happy with the
> way it looks right now, but I wonder how important it might be in the future
> to pursue that extra "WOW!" factor with a modern super-smooth high-gloss
> clear coat. 
> 
> I have observed that most of the early 300's (and other cars from the '50's
> and '60's) that have brought the best prices at high-end auctions are those
> with modern high-gloss finishes, and although my general impression is that
> they have been "over-restored", it is clear that the market loves them that
> way. Although I am not at all interested in obtaining a maximum sales
> price some time in the distant future (probably at least ten years from now,
> by which time I will be over 80 years old and probably not likely able to
> enjoy "Big Red" as much as before, and won't need the money by then anyway),
> I would want to maximize the value to the next caretaker of this really nice
> piece of automotive history.
> 
> The cost of the new clear overcoat and color sanding/buffing would likely be
> less than $3,000, and would probably add that much to the eventual sales
> price a decade from now; however, since I know that's not how it could ever
> have come out of the factory, I am somewhat torn between "best possible
> old-school original finish" or "best modern 2013 finish". 
> 
> Your perspectives on this issue would be appreciated.
> 
> Ray Melton
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 


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