Re: [Chrysler300] Hurst color / General paint thoughts...

[Steve Albu <saforwardlook@xxxxxxxxx>]

Mike's message reflects much experience and wisdom, and also reflects what
my body/paint guy has also been telling me about choosing matching colors
for my cars.  The old color codes are just about worthless these days and
the best you can do is come close to a good sample with the caveats Mike
pointed out.  If you have an original factory color & trim selector book
that was used in the showrooms back in the day for your specific model
year, they contain relatively large size color samples that could be
helpful in making your selection (at least this is true for the circa 1970
color and trim selector books).  Such books may not have been available
back in the day for some of our letter cars though, although I at least
have one for the 1965 models, including the 300L.

Steve Albu


On Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 11:29 AM, Mwl1967 <mwl1967@xxxxxxx> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Although there are several different "gold" colors for Caddy (both '69 &
> '70), the color code I believe you're after is PPG #2184. It's referenced
> as Sauterne. No "mist" or "gold" in the name. It's currently available from
> PPG in their "Shopline" series.
>
> Having said that here are some thoughts: I've found that modern formulas
> used to mix older colors are "close" at best. The modern toners / pigments
> used to paints are not the same as those used when the colors were
> formulated. Also, it's not just paint brand itself. When I did my 300K in
> Silver Torquoise I had an original aged, but untouched paint sample under
> the K medallion on the quarter panel. It polished clean. I mixed the color
> in PPG, BASF Diamont, and Glasurit and Dupont. Not only did not of those
> match the good sample on the car, they didn't even match each other. They
> were all close, but different. I chose the one I liked best.
>
> When painting my brother's '71 Chrysler I did the same thing.. multiple
> brands for the burnished red metallic produced different colors and ALL of
> them way too brown. None of them matched each other and none of them
> matched our sample and/our memories and old photos of when the car was new.
> We chose a 2012 Jaguar color and it was perfect. The metallic was very fine
> and there was no pearl look in the color. By that I mean the color didn't
> change or "pop" in the sunlight. Yes we looked at newer Chrysler colors but
> they all had larger metallic and all "popped" in the sunlight...a dead
> giveaway it would not be an original color.
>
> Also, paint companies have a camera they use to scan the color for a
> formula... yes and no. The camera only references the closest color stored
> in the computer, not the formula to mix the paint you're trying to match.
> What it comes down to is the modern paint formulas are at best a close
> attempt to match originals. I believe you'd be better suited pulling the
> deck of chips (NOT a color book) and fanning them out to match what you
> either have as a sample or choose the one that's close. Look at the color
> chip "head on" and then look at it from a 45 degree angle to see if the
> "sidecast" is acceptable. Some colors look good straight on then completely
> change when looking at an angle. Try to avoid a color that has that "flop"
> to it. I don't recommend letting your painter tint the paint (change the
> formula) to try to achieve the desired color. By the time you need
> something repaired or touched up he'll likely be long gone and then good
> luck trying to redo the one-off mix. Stick with a color code you're happy
> with. Another thing to remember is that for any given color code on a
> vehicle (even new cars) there are often alternates. Meaning we sometimes
> have 3 or 4 formulas to choose from for the same color code.
>
> Hope I didn't muddy the waters, or colors, so to speak
>
> Mike Laiserin
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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