Re: [Chrysler300] Dead Hurst Window Motor

[Ray Jones <1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx>]

*Thomas, Thomas, Thomas,This is why we have archives. It's been discussed
often.
*
*These lift mechanisms are strongly spring loaded, to counterbalance the
weight of the glass.
*
*So,ALWAYS clamp a good pair of vice-grips on the frame to keep the arm
from moving. A volg bolt thru the frame is also a good backup stop.
*
*I have a dent in my scull from my "L" unwinding, that's how I know!

*
* Parts are available, and look for a metal gear as them came in earlier
years. The moters are all the same up int the late 80's, I think.
*
* The last of them even had the D C D P logos on them.

*
*Just bolt the motor back n the frame, it doesn't care where the arm is.

*
*Electrically, the motor housing is NOT grounded. Current flows thru it and
that determines which way it turns.
It runs one way with the positive on one terminal and the other way with
the + on the other terminal.
* *

*
*And finally, You are hosting the fall meet.
Your job is to see to it that there is NO rain, so your Hurst won't have to
stay home with an open window!

*
*Good luck with the Hurst and the Meet.
Ray*


On Sun, Aug 11, 2013 at 8:34 AM, DeBusk Thomas L. <tleed@xxxxxxxx> wrote:

> **
>
>
> I'm sure this topic has been beaten to death on the list, so sorry for the
> repeat, but:
>
> My '70 Hurst has long had an ailing driver's power window. Creeps down
> while driving & won't go all the way up unless I pull it up. So last night
> I pulled it apart. Kinda like building (or demolishing) a ship in a bottle.
>
> Item #1: I got it the mechanism disengaged from the window, but I'm not
> exactly sure how, and I have no idea how I'll get it back together. Tips
> here would be appreciated. I saw the last nylon slide come out of the
> track, but the rest of them just kinda popped loose while I was maneuvering
> stuff around. Is there a particular order they have to go back in?
>
> Item #2: When I took the electric motor off the window arms, the arms
> kicked with such ferocity that my miniature socket set got scared and all
> the little sockets ran away to hide. One is still on the lam. :( That
> didn't happen with my '82 Dodge 400. So I'm wondering if there is a special
> way to re-mount the electric motor. It actually caught on one of the bolts
> and didn't unwind. I suppose I just keep that bolt in place and re-install
> the motor in the same position? If I let it completely loose, am I screwed
> because there's no way to get it re-wound to the correct tension without
> losing fingers & sanity?
>
> Item #3: The motor runs fine & the switch is flawless. The failed
> component seems to be inside the motor drive mechanism. Apparently there
> was some kind of nylon something-or-other that has been ground into little
> tiny bits of miniature aquarium sand. It's inside a triangular-shaped
> hollow in the motor gear section. It looks like all the rest of my gears &
> teeth are in good shape. So I'm wondering if I can just get this little
> piece of magic vanishing nylon by itself? Or do I have to buy a whole new
> motor just to get this part? Has anybody had success getting this thing
> from their local parts jockeys, or from Rock Auto? If so , what do you ask
> for? Surely they'll laugh if you ask for a 1970 electric motor nylon
> thingy... It seems that I did have a similar problem with my Dodge 400, and
> I vaguely remember replacing the nylon bits with a cutoff dowel. But that
> was 20 years ago and the memory is way too distant to be helpful and
> there's no way to size a dowel from the little bits...and anyway I'm not
> sure it was a dowel-shaped thing I'm missing because it's all in little
> bits...
>
> If this window is kind to me, then I will also install the new shocks I
> got on this car before the upcoming meet. I sure hope it cooperates. I'd
> hate to have this brute stuck in the shed for want of a driver's window!
>
> Thomas DeBusk
> 540-818-0767
>  
>



-- 
*Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an see us. Ya hear?*


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