Sure
it is motor and not stripped nylon gears ? Motors
get wet and wrecked, but usually can be repaired...There is a little circuit
breaker ( looks like ignition points) in them that rusts if water runs in,
which in some orientations happens, then due to the rust, if no/bad
contact there, it acts like open coils , as it is in common ground lead.
I have disassembled brush end , you can short this contact out if damaged (or
file it maybe) by soldering bare 16 ga wire from coil ends terminal on it
to a new small hole in end cover you drill and solder shut with wire or small
lug on 4/40 maybe. (forget exact details, did it several ways, on F boxes) ) Then
free up brushes in holders so they slide . There are pros and cons of greasing slides,
and springs to prevent sticking again ,.a tiny amount of wheel bearing
grease maybe . Grease on front of brushes or commutator hurts it . Shorted overload
thing means if you press down a button and hold for 5 minutes motor may burn out,
but no one is going to do that to a 300 now ( dumb beyond belief if you do) .
lube gears etc be sure window not binding, check rollers . drop of heavy oil on
front and back bushing, do not overoil . On
front of motor shaft , stock , was a little rubber or plastic roof or umbrella,
looks like a valve stem seal; those throw off the water keep it out of front bearing
of motor (and resulting mayhem inside); they shrink and get loose. Were pliable
and tight. Reseal with RTV, or silicone , maybe weatherstrip cement ? to shaft
so water is kept out of motor front . If
nylon gear in case is stripped, it will appear to work on bench (pinion turns) but
will not lift the window (AAUUGH! After all that work ) as nylon
toothed gear spins around loose on center metal hub ; J-Y Chouinard in Canada
has solid bronze gears , can rebuild gearbox box , so it is forever . Good
luck, motor can usually be salvaged!! To
test put – lead to motor frame, 12V to one or other lead ; be
careful of the big spring, it can really cut you up. mark how it is on there before
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