George:
That’s what we did for our ’64 ram K. However, previously, someone had replaced the ram engine with a non-ram 383, disconnected the remote booster and installed a standard power brake booster and MC on the firewall. The standard booster has a different reinforcing/mounting plate on the firewall than does the non-boosted MC and I had to obtain the correct plate in order to install the non-boosted MC.
Removal of the residual pressure “check valve” from the firewall MC is critical in order that the actuating pressure be bled off the remote boosted cylinder. Otherwise, the brakes will drag and overheat. It was news to me that this little check valve even existed. It is commonly used on brake systems to keep a very light residual positive pressure on the brake system to reduce its tendency to inhale atmospheric air and moisture.
Another ramK owner was trying to modify his brakes to use a dual outlet MC, but we saw no way to integrate a dual outlet MC into the remote-boosted system. So great care should be taken to assure all hoses, tubing and connections are strong, non-corroded and tight as a broken line or hose will leave you with NO SERVICE BRAKES. I did run into a bad batch of wheel cylinders and the little MC which seeped from the get-go. Seemed almost like sabotage by our Asian manufacturers. I suspect poor synthetic material in the cups and improper finish in the bores, but can prove nothing.
The master cylinder body and guts for a ’63-’64 ram car is actually a common item and may be purchased new or rebuilt for a 1964 Plymouth, Dodge or Chrysler without power brakes—then the check valve must be removed from the outlet. I recall the guts had to be removed in order to poke out the little check valve wafer. The non-presence of the check valve makes the MC a technically different item but the body, guts and mounting system are the same.
There is a specific bleeding schedule that must be used to eliminate air from throughout the brake system. The process is defined in the 1964 300K Supplemental Service manual which can be viewed at:
http://www.jholst.net/64-supplement/brakes.pdf (Page 2). All readers are encouraged to visit member John Holst’ most excellent website and click on “Chrysler 300 Resources” to view a wide array of service and parts manuals and other information for all years of letter cars. John still drives the 300K originally purchased by his father.
C300K’ly,
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA
From what I have learned from the guru of K’s Don Cole, just get a master for a manual brake car and take out the residual valve (the remote booster has one). I got one for my J, but have yet to install it. Looks good though and has the studs through the firewall. I got it from Rock Auto.
Sent: Friday, January 10, 2014 5:37 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] J / ram K master cylinders
I have a ram K that has a slight leak in the master cylinder and a leaking wheel cylinder, so I'm doing a complete brake job.
1. Are the brake systems on J and ram K identical in every way? I ask because I may find parts for a J and not for a ram K. Also, there's less confusion if I ask for something for a J because the K has both ram and non ram parts.
2. Does anyone know of a good source for a rebuilt master cylinder? All of the parts houses I've checked either don't go back that far or they have master cylinders for all Chryslers but J or K. I know there's Kanter, but their price is high.
3. Anything else I should know, like helpful hints on doing the work, procuring parts, what mfrs. to use or avoid, etc.?
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