Ron:
Starter - The first thing you need to do is to check the integrity of the starter. Using a "remote starter switch" connect the RSS connections to the bolted battery terminal (BAT) and the screwed on solenoid terminal (SOL) of the starter relay. If you don't have a remote starter switch, a screwdriver will work in a pinch. Closing the circuit between these two (large) terminals should engage the solenoid and energize the starter. If the starter don't work at this point, then that is where the problem is. If the starter works, move to the next step.
Starter Relay - You will find two spade connectors with wires attached on the top of the starter relay. The yellow wire is the 12-volt supply from the ignition switch, which is attached to the ignition (I) terminal. The brown wire is the ground wire, which is attached to the ground (G) terminal. Using two jumper wires, attach one wire from the positive post of the battery to the (I) terminal, then attach another wire to the negative post of the battery to the (G) terminal. If your starter does not engage with this arrangement, the starter relay is bad. If the starter engages with this arrangement, the starter relay is good and you need to move on the next step.
Ignition Current - The next thing you need to check is the integrity of the 12-volt supply to the relay. Attach one end of a test lamp or volt meter to the yellow ignition wire, with the other end attached to ground. If the test light or voltmeter either don't light, or doesn't show 12-volts with the key in the start position, then there is an open in the ignition circuit. If you light the light or show 12-volts with the key in the start position, move on to the next test.
Neutral Safety Switch Circuit - The next thing you need to check is the ground circuit to the relay. First, disconnect the brown wire from the (G) terminal and attach a jumper wire between the (G) terminal and the negative battery post. If the car starts like this, but not with the brown wire connected to the relay, then the problem is an open in the ground circuit, either a bad NSS, or broken wire. If the NSS is bad, disconnecting the two prong connector to the switch and installing a jumper wire should allow the car to start in any gear.
Go ahead and start testing and let us know what you find. And please, perform the proper trouble shooting to fully verify what is wrong before you start replacing parts or wires you might assume are bad.
Chris the K MANIAC
-----Original Message-----
From: Ronald Kurtz mark6268@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Intl 300 <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thu, Sep 4, 2014 10:15 am
Subject: [Chrysler300] Car won't start
Hello, everyone:
Thanks to those who responded about brake lines for my E.
New topic: My 64 won't start. I recently replaced all electrical components and installed a brand new wiring harness. The car started and ran fine.
I went to start it today, not even a click. Headlights, courtesy lights, radio, etc. all work. When I go to start it the headlights don't dim, but the emergency brake indicator light does. I also noticed the taillights stay lit while the battery is connected.
I checked the neutral start switch, the wiring to it and all the electrical connections under the hood and the starter, which is rebuilt. All connections are tight and correct.
Any
thoughts before I rewire the car? Thanks.
Best,
Ron Kurtz
E #292
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Posted by: kmaniak@xxxxxxx
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