Hi Steve, you do not say which years, but 60-61 the motors come apart , two long screws from end….most earlier too, tricky as brushes pop out, but probably a self evident , if frustrating thing. On yours I would try helping it first before opening, by grabbing shaft with suitable lock pier, in a place that scoring will not hurt it, (gearbox shaft?? )or protect it (will slide through brass bushing coming apart , remember) helping it by rocking back and forth , may be seized in bearings due to time and no oil. Penetrating oil on front bushing, and once I drilled .060 into space on back cover around bearing and shot in penetrating oil in while working free,--if you free it and oil, and brushes ok , it is ok. Brushes sometimes stick in spring slides , just free them. If it draws amps and no turn, mechanically frozen; If no draw, brushes stuck off commutator, or circuit breaker corroded .Have to look at wiring diagram how to power these out of car. Some have two direction fields, power goes to one wire and ground, Some have reversing 6 pins per window switch, 12v power then goes to two wires ,no grounds; this kind has magnets , often .Doing this wrong, it will not turn, can hurt it, if you put 12 on two wires meant for grounded system , can burn up fields, it will not move . . check your year book .
Try to not put a lot of oil in there, as bad for brushes, burns. One drop plenty at back. But as opposed to throwing it out…
From: Anna F Noia [mailto:sa-noia@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2014 1:24 PM
To: John Grady; 'Gary Nelson'; 'Terry Mctaggart'; 'Listserver Chrysler Club'
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Power Window Gearbox Failure
John
I'm learning alot her about power windows. Mine seem to be stuck, when power is applied they don't turn. (that's out of the car, disconnected from the window regulator). How do you service the motor? Is there an easy method, or should I send them out for refurish or overhaul? I have six to do this to and that gets a little pricey, four windows and two vents. Any suggestions, insights on what I can do, or on who or where to send them? Also expected costs? Thanks in advance.
Best Regards,
Stephen A. Noia
1-408-210-4736 cell
From: "'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: 'Gary Nelson' <gnelson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>; 'Terry Mctaggart' <terrymct999@xxxxxxxxx>; 'Listserver Chrysler Club' <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 4, 2014 2:25 PM
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Power Window Gearbox Failure
No ---been in these 20 times over thirty years; the nylon gear ring on periphery hardens a lot, it is fragile like glass, sort of shrinks, and breaks in tension between two teeth ; then it spins freely around periphery . Note that teeth are not broken off, usually; I agree regreasing helps the box a lot, it needs it, but loads in this gear are very high (that spring is POTENT) ---compared to anything hard grease can possibly do, in terms of loading it or adding friction-- and grease is generally hardened off to one side not in the gear mesh at all ; box would work ok dry but wear out, which wear, grease would stop. Shrinking of old nylon is like Mercedes(German rubber) vacuum line elbows. After a awhile it is done for , in petroleum.
Further, greatly added friction in window lifts, especially back window on 2 dr hardtop, is probably the proximal cause, as those little rollers are off the track , dirty , stuck, flat sided, or worn out, or window misadjusted, new weather-strip adds a lot of drag, overloading everything . Does your slow down in the middle of rising, or rise slow? Going toward this problem. Had to make those rollers too. J-Y has them….
While on this, I drill an .060 hole at low point in end cover after cleaning motor brushes, that whole area, to let incidental water out, as internal snap type circuit breaker there is often rusted, or connection /contact points corroded . that stops motor . there to prevent burnout if a kid (?) holds down pw switch . If bad, I jump them out with wire /solder, to save motor. If someone holds down sw! itch, or overdoes it, so be it. Most of us know better. The little cap of plastic between motor and gear box is there to throw water off .
John
Cambridge Mass, land of Harvard.
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Gary Nelson' gnelson@xxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 12:26 PM
To: Terry Mctaggart; Listserver Chrysler Club
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Power Window Gearbox Failure
Not the gear box fault. You must remove all the old dried grease on tracks and replace with a non hardening grease. Gear boxes should last another 50 years.
Thank you,
Gary, the parts doc
Escondido, CA USA
Land of the Avocado
Mail: garythepartsdoc@xxxxxxxxxxxx
760.751.1958
-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Terry Mctaggart terrymct999@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2014 5:37 PM
To: Listserver Chrysler Club
Subject: [Chrysler300] Power Window Gearbox Failure
Terry McTaggart here. Over the last few years, I have experianced two failures in the power window gearboxes in my 300F. Both failures were identical, in that the plastic gear teeth surrounding the metal disk inside the gearbox broke, rendering the gearbox useless. Fortunately I had two spares in the attic and was able to replace the offending part. Now, however, I have no more spares and the next failure (if there is one) will be a major problem. Has anyone else experienced this failure, and if so, might this be a good project for the repro committee?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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