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Wow. I learned to drive in a ’50 Champ. Just stuffing it with the 232 CID V-8 in 1951 was a huge step up. Everything since then has been a step up in torque, if not in style. Still, one could see the little engine that could react to action/reaction of rotating parts. As engine torque is rotated 90 degrees at the differential, the torque reaction can result in wheelies. That’s why old WP equipped his cars with floating power—to keep some of the vibrations and torque out of the chassis and body. I now understand that it is common for the engine and transmission to be installed offset but with their shafts still parallel to the centerline of the car when viewed from the sky, above. The offset may be for any of various reasons, including space for steering box and/or space for the driver’s big lead foot. And that U-joints have limited ability to absorb offset. The more offset, the faster wear on the U-joints and probably some loss in drivetrain efficiency. I have also noted that some effort is occasionally made to rotate the axle housing to provide for a straighter line through the driveshaft and pinion shaft (viewed from the side) when operating in the normal running position. Especially on larger-tired vehicles like dump trucks and Suburbans with 24’s. Proper compliance with the parallel shaft specification below would indicate the transmission tailshaft housing and engine centerline would be tilted down toward the diff at the same adjusted angle. I had speculated that differential housings may occasionally be designed with the pinion shaft at a slight angle where appropriate to the vehicle it will be installed in. That would be bad design, according to Dana/Spicer (See: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-DSSP.pdf for most excellent illustrations and explanations of driveshaft issues). They show the requirement that offset shafts still be parallel so that the angle on each end of the connecting driveshaft is equal—otherwise, bad vibes. Also, it is necessary to have at least one degree of angularity at each U joint. Good to know. Interesting thread and another opportunity to share and learn. Rich Barber From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] I went through this in a Studeabaker, w 2 piece shaft, 3 u joints . Lot of pain, lot of learning . ( 50 starlight with 354 hemi, had this all wrong before I got it ) What is critical is that the pinion angle “line” in 3D and the line of the engine/trans are parallel in 3D space ; so a parallel offset even 4” ok side to side up or down , all ok . To side looks awful, driveshaft angles into axle when viewed under car, , but to driveshaft ,no different than up and down angles .(some 4wd front shafts are like that..and some old jeeps in back ) I measured the up and down part by setting frame or engine line level to good floor (not the same ,can be, but a fixed difference you can figure out ), kind of zero that with jacks (one way) , then check pinion angle, axle loaded . A degree or so different with rear wheels loaded is ideal, generally we are worried about up and down angle (=axle tube shims at spring U bolts) ; but as I think Richard meant, also critical looking down on car from sky (if you will) ----that 1) pinion is square to car axis , axle tubes 90 degrees to car axis, and that 2) engine crank line is the same , square to car axis . If front of engine or rear of transmission is moved sideways , vibration will drive you crazy . Axle pinion should be inherently OK in this direction, set by distance from leaf spring front eye to center of axle tube, usually a locating pin of some kind keeps that the same . Bottom line: if crank pulley is 1” to passenger side, by design, that is OK, trans output also needs to be 1” to passenger side , re trans mounts ..both off car centerline Rationale is I think to clear steering box , ex manifold, starter and column? PS gave them a wild ride fitting it in, compared to straight six and manual steering ..first ones were huge … I could never understand why starter on Chrysler not on other side, move oil filter.. John From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Rich Barber' c300@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] The engines in my ’55 and ’64 300’s are offset toward the passenger side and I know the rear tranny mount is also offset to the driver’s side in the ’55 as is the drive tunnel. The rear tranny mount of the ’55 can be installed either way and had been installed backwards so that the engine, transmission and driveshaft were angled improperly. I discovered this when addition of a couple of heavyweights in the back seat caused the driveshaft to thump the tunnel. I had noticed no other problems of vibration but everything was out of whack. I believe the offset is common with the rationale being to offset the weight of the driver and to give the driver a little more foot room for the accelerator pedal. This offset is huge in our motor home which is built on the GM P30 chassis and has the back of its 454 intruding between the foot wells. I looked at our ’99 Jeep and its engine seems to be perfectly centered. It’s possible the rear tranny mount on all or most of our 300’s may also be offset and subject to installation error. And, so, worth a peek next time you are underneath to make sure crankshaft, tail shaft and drive shaft are pretty much lined up with the back U-joint being responsible for making up any angularity offsets. It would not surprise me if the pinion shaft was also slightly out of orthogonality. Rich Barber Director and Membership Manager Chrysler 300 Club, Inc. 1801 Redwine Terrace Brentwood, CA 94513-6000 Home: (925) 513-6583 Cell: (925) 783-4893 e-mail: c300@xxxxxxx Website: www.chrysler300clubinc.com From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Dave Dumais dave.dumais@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] My engine and 4 spd are now installed. Good mounts lined up on the frame studs, and trans tailshaft was tweaked into place to line up mount with bolt and washer. Looking into the engine comp't with hood not installed, the rear of the engine seems to be twisted a bit towards the pass side. Should the center of water pump line up with center of radiator grill? (radiator is not installed) I am thinking of installing radiator and then 4 blade fan, and check clearance between fan tips and radiator. If the spacing is even,then there should be no concerns> Thanks, Dave __._,_.___ Posted by: "Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx> To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/all/manage/edit For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang __,_._,___ |
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