Something else to consider. The damper is "keyed" and can only be installed on the crank in one position. That alone would indicate to me that #1 TDC would be in precisely the same place in reference to the key way (but of course not in reference to the slipping outer "ring")
With this in mind, if I have a known good reference, I can determine where TDC is with a straightedge and a protractor since TDC will be x number of degrees away from the key way....
Best Regards,
TFM
Tom Miller
'57 300 C, '70 440+6 'Cuda
>>> "'Bob Jasinski' rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 2/2/2015 2:36 PM >>>
There must be a predetermined way to positively align the two parts prior to vulcanizing When these were originally made, they were premade before engine assembly and installed and aligned with the crank via keyway, that's it. The factory didn't mess around trying to figure out TDC and if the marks are correct, it's a production part made to a certain spec. I'm sure the rebuilder uses the same method.
Bob J
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Gary Nelson' gnelson@xxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 11:26 AM
To: Ron Waters; Larry Jett
Cc: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Re: Harmonic Damper
I don’t trust when someone says they have tooling to locate TDC, I have to do it myself. You need to install a hard stop on #1 cylinder and attach a degree wheel. On an assembled motor you can do it at the spark plug hole. You can buy stop for plug hole or weld a 1” bolt stub to a old spark plug. Google the subject, I am sure you will get detail info.
If your balancer is in two pieces, you can use wood shims in three places for a temporary hold.
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Re: Harmonic Damper
If you have a ring that's been rotating over time, how would you know where the correct position is ? Also, what happens if you try to remove the balancer and the ring completely separates from the inside rubber ?
I'll attempt to answer my own question: There must be some kind of alignment marking on the inner and outer pieces. I sent two balancers to Damper Dudes, that had done exactly what I describe above.They were able to rebuild them and they are now back on their respective cars and everything works well.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Re: Harmonic Damper
Before removing balancer, you must determine correct TDC. The outer ring will rotate over time. If you don’t correct it, rebuilder will reassemble as you send it to him. You will never know if your timing is correct.
Another good source to rebuild.
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 3:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Re: Harmonic Damper
Larry W Jett
8176 Fairway Ct Eat, Drink, & Be Larry...
On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 3:38 PM, 'Ron Waters' ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
DamperDudes.net. They rebuilt a couple for me. Very satisfied.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Re: Harmonic Damper
I too may need a Balancer for my 300C. Does anyone know where they can be rebuilt? That looks like a very difficult process, vulcanizing between the inner and outer? What about lining up the timing mark to the keyway on the crank? Are there any instructions on that detail to keep it all in sync with the timing mark, etc., etc.. I hope someone has this experience and can HELP????? Thanks in advance, and Good Luck!
1. Jamie, I had my 300H damper rebuilt. There are lots of places which rebuild them keeping the same parts and maintaining the correct timing mark orientation.
2. A number of years ago, when I started my 97 Mercedes E320 , the damper came apart. It did extensive damage, fortunately still under warranty. I forgot all the parts they replaced, but it included a brake disc, radiator, some hoses etc. It would have been very expensive if I had to pay for it.
300H
One of the guys in my local Mopar club has built a replica 1962 Nascar racing Hyper Pac slant 6 cylinder Valiant. Nascar proposed adding a 6 cylinder compact car class in 62 but when Chrysler fielded the four barrel header quipped slant 6 that blew away the Fords and Chevy’s, they quickly cancelled the series. Anyways my friend was drag racing his car at the track when at high RPM the vibration dampers outer steel ring separated from the elastomeric ring, and then somehow the steel ring moved forward onto the belt drive pulley. It resulted in an instant unbalanced condition and removed the lower drive pulley from the engine along with the drive belts. The engine never missed a beat, he felt a vibration, heard a bang, and the vibration disappeared. When he glanced down after the run he noticed the alternator was no longer charging. He then drove to the timing tower, collected his time slip, and proceed to the pits, it was then he noticed that his engine temperature had started to climb slightly. Upon further inspection in the pit he found the belt and pulley gone off the engine. The pulleys metal was ripped right off the mounting bolts, which stayed on the engine along with a bit of the pulley metal. It did not do any other damage to the car and they never found the ring or pulley bits when they walked the track. I mentioned this to George and he stated that it is one reason NHRA requires approved dampers on modified engines. He told me he had made a run of brand new NOS style replacement dampers. I ordered one for my 65 300L right then from him and he delivered to me at the next club meet, in hind sight I should have bought two, as I have the J now.
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Posted by: "Thomas Miller" <TFM@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
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