I just found a site which I posted which says a good number for clearance that is .020 inches. Mike Moore 300H On Mar 2, 2015, at 9:32 AM, Anna F Noia sa-noia@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: To All One point I'd like to make is that when a New MC is installed, you must check the input shaft from the brake pedal arm to the MC. There must be a slight clearance from the end of the shaft to the disc in the MC. If there is no clearance, the MC will not release completely, causing the rear brakes to eventually lock up. Just a thought, this has happened to me. Also, whoever made the comments about the "Big" Buick Aluminum Brake drums was correct, before Disc's they were awesome stoppers, and were used on many Hot Rods back in the day....Along with my Chrysler 300's I toooo have a couple of the "BIG" Buicks, one being a 65 Electra 225 Convertible and a Riviera GS w/2x4's.... Best Regards, Stephen A. Noia 1-408-210-4736 cell On Monday, March 2, 2015 8:35 AM, "'Ron Waters' ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: Forwarding to group...
----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: "Rick Vitek" <rpvitek@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Monday, March 02, 2015 10:30 AM Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Bleeding brakes on the 59 300E .................................. > Based on your initial symptoms, I would suggest that you replace your rear > brake hose, even if it 'still looks good'. These guys can collapse > internally, leading to what you describe. > > Were your rear cylinders leaking ? If not, why did you replace ? Also > wondering why you replaced the master cylinder. What led you to believe > that was the issue ? > > So to address your present problem. Follow these steps in order. > > Replace the rear brake hose. > 'Bench bleed' the master cylinder, either by removing from the car or > following the method that Rick Vitek suggested. I would recommend skipping > the 'adult beverage' part when working with brakes. > Bleed the brakes until no more bubbles appear in the fluid. > Turn the adjusters on the rear wheels until the shoes lock against the > drums. Be sure that you understand the correct way to turn the adjusters > to accomplish this. > Check that you have a firm, solid pedal. For now, there should be little > to no movement. > Loosen the rear adjusters on each side so that the wheels will spin, but > you hear a slight drag. > Check the pedal again. You should have some movement...about an inch or > two before attaining solid pedal. > Drive car and test. > > Ron > > >> From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On >> Behalf Of Chrysler300E@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] >> Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2015 8:01 AM >> To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >> Subject: [Chrysler300] Bleeding brakes on the 59 300E > > >> Good Afternoon to Everyone out there in 300 Land! >> >> Subject: Bleeding brakes > >> My rear brakes were starting to lock up when I applied the brakes while >> coming to a stop. I replaced the master cylinder and rebuild the rear >> brake >> cylinders. Now that I've bled the brakes, or at least I thought, the >> brake >> pedal is going all the way to the floor. Any suggestions? >> >> Thanks to any and all responses in advance! > >> Tom >> >> South Miami, Florida > __._,_.___ Posted by: Michael Moore <mmoore8425@xxxxxxx> To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/all/manage/edit For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang __,_._,___ |