|
It sure sounds like defective sender still, given gas level has any impact at all..unless dash gauge is mechanically binding. Do not know about K, but that bind in a gauge happened on 67 Cuda I had..needle was touching inside of gauge plastic, had apart 10 x, always worked till put in car….PIA to the max. internal structure delicate, but you can usually get a look in by removing dial face . something might be bent. In general do not adjust anything..you make it worse. You can test gauge by putting 5 V or 6 V lantern battery onto hot side of it, disconnected from car, and other side of battery to other terminal that went to sensor …that puts 5-6 v on heater, gauge will rise smoothly to full scale , do not leave it on, 6 is a little high but does not hurt it. The 5V comes from regulating 6, maybe in 30’s , radio guy Atwater Kent made . probably invented these. But different ohms and hi lo direction senses in different cars Everything Rich says is right, but usually the 5 V average is done by pulsing the 12 v on and off with the “gauge voltage regulator” which plugs into dash, or on some 60-61 is in gas gauge (not sure of K) but E pulses 12 for sure ; you see voltages feeding gauges jump from 12 to zero a few times per second. You can see on temp gauge sender itself too, to ground with voltmeter ..tells you this is working in an easy way ..wont be 12, but you see jumps. If on half that time, it is the same heat as 6V.The gauges work on heat, nice and slow , you can sometimes see pulsing action when first turned on..it will move up in steps; if 12 V rises it heats faster in regulator, the on pulses get shorter. This part seldom fails but is often blamed. Do not short any wires for test except leads to tank, you can blow this part up if you ground gauge + feed wire. If temp and oil p ok, leave all this alone. If you ground tank wire briefly, gauge should smoothly rise to full, if it does all is working there in dash . Problem is still in sensor . Some Chinese cheap replacement sensors have incorrect calibrations , wrong ohms, zero is off, arm length to float is all wrong . That happened in cuda. Added big time to woes. So save old one, it can usually be fixed. Or one from another mopar stripped for parts , I forget ohms but I think ~70 at E maybe 8-10 at full, if sensor right. That ohms can be right but arm bent wrong , or float no good. Hope this helps you! From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Rich Barber' c300@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] If the E is like our K, the gas gauge in the dash contains an electronic circuit to maintain a low, but constant, voltage. The K gauge generates a steady 5.0 Volt source which is used in conjunction with the variable resistance of the tank sending unit and a big external capacitor connected to the power input side to produce a steady fuel gauge needle. The 5.0 Volt source is also fed to the temperature gauge in the K dash so that it might also produce an accurate temperature gauge reading regardless of the changing system Voltage. If that constant voltage circuit is not working correctly, both the temperature gauge and gas gauge should be affected. Jeff Carter and others certainly know more about this system than I, but you should be able to measure that 5.0 Volt source Voltage (”A”) with 12 Volts applied to the power input side (“I”) and a variable resistance placed between ground and the sensor connection (“S”) of the Fuel Gage. The tank level sensor is essentially an insulator wound on the outside with resistance wire. A finger slides across the wire as fuel level varies and produces a variable resistance to ground. Over time, alignment of the finger and the proper tension to keep it engaged against the wire winding can vary so that the finger is not always in contact with some point on the wire.. I would think that the sliding finger should be able to scrape off any crud as the tank level waxes and wanes. The other element of the circuit is the wiring from the tank level sensor and the gauge. As with all wiring, it is exposed to possible wear through increasingly brittle insulation and rubbing if not properly routed.. There are several connectors in its length. All can be problematic. The flange of the sensor must be connected to a good ground somehow. The lock ring connects the mounting flange to the tank (if not corroded) and the tank must then be grounded to the chassis. Running a ground wire from the sensor mounting flange to the frame helps guarantee the necessary good ground. My K has two printed circuit boards behind the instrument panel. Checking out a spare panel I have, I found that there is a bad connection between one of the pin connectors and the copper surface to which it is crimped. It does not appear to be soldered and a bad connection at the instrument panel connector/pin is another possible source of the problem. Mechanically, the float must float. If brass, it must not leak or have gasoline inside it, if cork or foam, it must not become saturated. And, the bends in the float mounting wire must be proper to track tank level from full to empty. Or, you can just fill up every 150 miles on the trip odometer. I probably have a problem now with my K as I have driven it 70 miles since the last fill and it still reads Full. And the temp gauge has stopped working. Do keep us posted as to which element or elements of the system had failed and how the repair was implemented. Thanks, 300K’ly, Rich Barber Brentwood, CA From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Chrysler300E@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] Good Evening to Everyone Out There in 300 Land!!! __._,_.___ Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/all/manage/edit For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang __,_._,___ |
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network
Archive Sitemap