RE: [Chrysler300] installing harmonic balancer

["'Rick Vitek' rpvitek@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks for all the responses. To answer some of the e-mails I received: The part that broke was not the socket. I used one of the free loaner tools from the local auto parts for installing balancers. This tool had a bolt going through the hollow shaft of the larger bolt that does the work of pressing the bearing against the balancer and forcing it on the crankshaft. It was this smaller bolt that sheared. After installation I noticed I had the problem that the pulley grooves weren’t aligned right. I had on the ps pump and the water pump had remained on the engine during the work ( no a/c compressor, no alternator on the engine at that point). The water pump pulley groove was further back than the corresponding groove in the crankshaft pulley. The ps pulley also looked like it didn’t line up. I attributed this to the damper not being fully seated. I cranked down harder on the tool, got some movement then it broke. I finally resolved this by again removing the balancer, measuring the depth from the end of the crankshaft to the shoulder of the crankshaft where the balancer would rest against when fully seated . I could then calculate how far from the end of the snout of the balancer the end of the crankshaft would be at the fully seated position. This was still not an easy ride seating it down the crankshaft.

 

Afterward I still has a problem with mismatched pulleys. The belt for the ps was too close to the belt for the water pump. After several hours of staring at it I realized the problem had been there before I disassembled the top of the engine and I noticed two problems. First the water pump hub pulley was slightly rear of the corresponding groove in the crankshaft pulley (the water pump pulley as well as the water pump haven’t been disturbed since I got the car ). I then installed the water pump tensioner pulley and noted the water pump pulley groove was the same distance rear of the groove in its tensioner pulley and its crankshaft pulley. Looks like I’ll shim the water pump pulley a little forward. It took me a while longer to realize the ps pulley was canted relative to the plane of the crankshaft pulleys. I checked and it was not a bent shaft nor a bent pulley on the ps. I realized the ps bracket that mounted to the block had been twisted slightly and this resulted in canting the pump and hence the pulley. A little pressure in a vise on a portion of the bracket I identified as bent and the canting was solved and it lined up properly with the crank pulley. 

 

From: Don Verity [mailto:d.verity@xxxxxxx] 
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2015 9:46 AM
To: Rick Vitek; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] installing harmonic balancer

 

With the proper tool, the balancer should go on pretty easy, and be almost flush with the end of the crank. Sounds like something is wrong with your key way slot, or the key has slipped back, preventing the balancer from going on. The retaining bolt also needs to be torqued to 135 foot pounds.

 

Don

 

From: mailto:Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 

Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2015 1:18 PM

To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 

Subject: [Chrysler300] installing harmonic balancer

 

  

So I had the balancer rebuilt. Install it to the point the tool  won’t go any further. Mount pulley on balancer but belt grooves don’t line up with grooves on water pump pulley, etc. How far to install balancer? Is end of snout on balancer supposed to be flush with end of crankshaft? Haven’t been able to get it on that far and already snapped one installation tool. This is on a 413 for a G. Thanks in advance.





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Posted by: "Rick Vitek" <rpvitek@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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