RE: [Chrysler300] Voltage regulating

Bob:

It was good to see you and so many others at the Sparks meet.

Regarding the electrical issue, it is axiomatic that most electrical problems occur at connections. I see the same thing on our K and am deeply suspicious of intermittent make-and-break shorts and/or electrical connections at the bulkhead connector and elsewhere. As much of the K’s electrical system is protected by circuit breakers I am also suspicious that they may be doing their job by opening and dumping excess load if the load goes to short circuit overload—then closing after cooling out and starting the cycle all over again.

The bulkhead connector connections are especially weak links in the electrical system, particularly where the power feeds from the alternator and battery pass through on the same size connectors as the horn relay and parking lights. Pull, inspect and clean the connections to see if that helps—then start pulling fuses to see if any of the sub-circuits have a wiring or connection problem.

300K’ly,

Rich Barber (Mechanical engineer—never did much care for that fire-by-wire stuff)

Your neighbor in Brentwood

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Bob Jasinski' rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2015 8:54 AM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Voltage regulating

I have a stock alternator in my G, rebuilt to stock specs and verified as working properly by the rebuild shop. I currently run a modern solid state voltage regulator. Going up to Reno last week, my ammeter was bouncing wide swings left to right rapidly for no apparent reason. I have tried at least 3 mechanical and 3 solid state regulators to eliminate the problem, yet is still returns. Doesn't happen all the time, and the battery is getting charged, but the ridiculous gauge action drives me crazy. Does anyone know the actual cause if the problem? If it is a thin vs. thick stator, how does the stator thickness fix the problem? Is it possible to put a thicker stator in place of the thinner one? I'm very good with electrical issues but this is one I haven't been able fix in all these years of ownership. I think it may be a first year design problem but still don't quite know what causes it. Could it be that dampers in the later ammeters mask the issue? If it was only that, the headlights would still flicker, so what is really going on here?

Bob J

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of paul paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2015 3:42 PM
To: John Grady; 'Larry Jett'; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Voltage regulating

On 6/10/2015 06:36 PM, 'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
wrote:

> Hi Larry..went around with this a few times…there are replacement ones
> with a red wire hanging out, electronic “replacement” from China I
> think. But private labeled many ways. They are pure junk. They fail on,
> just as you say. Boils the battery. After much pain on this, I found
> that Standard Motor Parts has, or better had, a higher line, like the
> old Blue streak parts, that looks like the mechanical one, black metal
> box with two metal terminals, electronic , that work hassle free. No
> flicker. SMP makes or resells the cheap one, too. Good one is 2x the
> bucks. But still cheap.

> I had so much trouble with the one with wire hanging out, changed 3-4 x,
> that I found an old mechanical one from a junkyard that worked fine for
> a few years before finding the one I describe. The mechanical ones cause
> the needle dance and flicker..but so what..it works. I wish I had more
> specifics for you on the good one .

> FYI, The older one wire alternator has one terminal of field factory
> grounded, you can use a two wire two brush alternator in an older MOPAR
> by grounding one of the two wire alternator terminals.--the one wire
> from regulator in old design puts + 12V regulated for charge rate on the
> alternator , the +12 is derived from the ignition terminal on the
> box—one wire MOPAR alternator used at least to 67, maybe later; (not
> like one wire term, as used today) . which terminal is which is
> critical..you blow them up if reversed. The original terminals had
> different ends to prevent that, but they often break off, resulting in
> wires under screws .

> Good luck..! John

> *From:*Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> *On Behalf Of *Larry Jett LarryWJett@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 10, 2015 4:46 PM
> *To:* chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> *Subject:* [Chrysler300] Voltage regulating

> Back from Sparks NV and the Inc's spring meet. The alternator is
> showing a constant charge after miles of highway driving. NAPA only has
> the mechanical regular for the 1963 300 Touring 8 (my new name for
> Sport) and the existing VR is an electronic type I learned about from
> Hertog. Anybody know a part number for those small aluminum types that
> don't make the headlights flicker at night?

> Larry W Jett

I might add, IF you are seeking reliable performance and not fretting
nit-pickers, if you have the 'thin' stator alternator, the 'thick'
stator unit also stops or seriously deminishes the flickering dance the
amp meter is doing, even at idle.

--
Paul Holmgren
The history of liberty is a history of resistance.
The history of liberty is a history of limitations
of governmental power, not the increase of it.
- Woodrow Wilson, New York, September 9, 1912

__._,_.___

Posted by: "Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>

To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/all/manage/edit For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang

Visit Your Group

• Privacy • Unsubscribe • Terms of Use

__,_._,___