Hi Mark, that problem is very real on heavy draws..like AC fan or heater ; I add a pigtail type inline fuse ( either 3AG or spade type) from the correct power input line, (usually a spare flag is on main bus) to the wire feeding the accessory, solder the splice connection . Dodge trucks burn up and melt the fuse box 20- 30A at heater ,and at switch for fan. The fuse jumper fixes the fusebox . Other fuses are OK if clean and tight . “Almost All Electronics” has the fuseholders cheap. The fan switch on many cars and other heavy current switches are sometimes just flags of brass held by a rivet in phenolic..the phenolic shrinks, rivet gets loose on flag (Dodge truck and Dart , etc , fan switch , this happens all that time- Then it burns and things go to hell. Even new ones are sometimes loose. If you can rotate flag , it is no good. An easy fix is to thoroughly clean rivet head with razor and sandpaper and flag bottom and solder them together. Bulletproof repair on those for sure . Changing whole fuse box would be a bear…many wires are riveted onto it. John Grady, PE From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Mark Lindahl' mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2015 1:20 PM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Voltage regulating & Fuse Boxes
Hi All, I have had some issues with y radio and brake lights not working due to a significantly rusted/corroded fuse box. How have others got around this problem? I have tried a small wire wheel on the fuse box contacts and also electrical grease, similar to that used with tail light bulbs. The results have been marginal short term, but the problem keeps coming back. At one time, there was a discussion of possibly manufacturing new fuse boxes. Is this realistic? Regards, Mark Lindahl ’63 300 Conv. Take a look at the schematic. Is there a 'voltage limiter' indicated ? Some Mopars, 59 thru early 60s used a 5V gauge with a voltage limiter mounted nearby to bring the volts down from 12V. If you have one, it could be failing. ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2015 11:54 AM Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Voltage regulating I have a stock alternator in my G, rebuilt to stock specs and verified as working properly by the rebuild shop. I currently run a modern solid state voltage regulator. Going up to Reno last week, my ammeter was bouncing wide swings left to right rapidly for no apparent reason. I have tried at least 3 mechanical and 3 solid state regulators to eliminate the problem, yet is still returns. Doesn't happen all the time, and the battery is getting charged, but the ridiculous gauge action drives me crazy. Does anyone know the actual cause if the problem? If it is a thin vs. thick stator, how does the stator thickness fix the problem? Is it possible to put a thicker stator in place of the thinner one? I'm very good with electrical issues but this is one I haven't been able fix in all these years of ownership. I think it may be a first year design problem but still don't quite know what causes it. Could it be that dampers in the later ammeters mask the issue? If it was only that, the headlights would still flicker, so what is really going on here? Bob J On 6/10/2015 06:36 PM, 'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
wrote:
> Hi Larry..went around with this a few times…there are replacement ones
> with a red wire hanging out, electronic “replacement” from China I
> think. But private labeled many ways. They are pure junk. They fail on,
> just as you say. Boils the battery. After much pain on this, I found
> that Standard Motor Parts has, or better had, a higher line, like the
> old Blue streak parts, that looks like the mechanical one, black metal
> box with two metal terminals, electronic , that work hassle free. No
> flicker. SMP makes or resells the cheap one, too. Good one is 2x the
> bucks. But still cheap.
> I had so much trouble with the one with wire hanging out, changed 3-4 x,
> that I found an old mechanical one from a junkyard that worked fine for
> a few years before finding the one I describe. The mechanical ones cause
> the needle dance and flicker..but so what..it works. I wish I had more
> specifics for you on the good one .
> FYI, The older one wire alternator has one terminal of field factory
> grounded, you can use a two wire two brush alternator in an older MOPAR
> by grounding one of the two wire alternator terminals.--the one wire
> from regulator in old design puts + 12V regulated for charge rate on the
> alternator , the +12 is derived from the ignition terminal on the
> box—one wire MOPAR alternator used at least to 67, maybe later; (not
> like one wire term, as used today) . which terminal is which is
> critical..you blow them up if reversed. The original terminals had
> different ends to prevent that, but they often break off, resulting in
> wires under screws .
> Good luck..! John
> *From:*Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> *On Behalf Of *Larry Jett LarryWJett@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 10, 2015 4:46 PM
> *To:* chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> *Subject:* [Chrysler300] Voltage regulating
> Back from Sparks NV and the Inc's spring meet. The alternator is
> showing a constant charge after miles of highway driving. NAPA only has
> the mechanical regular for the 1963 300 Touring 8 (my new name for
> Sport) and the existing VR is an electronic type I learned about from
> Hertog. Anybody know a part number for those small aluminum types that
> don't make the headlights flicker at night?
> Larry W Jett
I might add, IF you are seeking reliable performance and not fretting
nit-pickers, if you have the 'thin' stator alternator, the 'thick'
stator unit also stops or seriously deminishes the flickering dance the
amp meter is doing, even at idle.
--
Paul Holmgren
The history of liberty is a history of resistance.
The history of liberty is a history of limitations
of governmental power, not the increase of it.
- Woodrow Wilson, New York, September 9, 1912
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Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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