Thanks Ed, I will be draining the oil before I remove the center section. If there is metal in the oil, the diff center for sure has to come out and we’re closing in. If there isn’t metal in the oil, I still want to take the diff center section out and take it to the shop for close inspection (unless some other compelling reason thing appears. Anyway, I judge the pinion to ring gear backlash to be excessive and I suspect that after 350,000 miles it may want some attention anyway. Thanks, MIke
If something broke / came loose in differential and jammed up gear
teeth, you might have such a symptom. Don't know 62 model - is there
not a drain plug on bottom of differential? Do you have a magnetic
plug on diff? Can you drain fluid looking for evidence of metal or
pieces?
Edward Mills
Antique Tractors 1930-1960
Antique Cars 1960-1985
Thanks Mark,
I have done all these things. Parking brake
sets and releases as it should. E brake drum turns as it
should and makes no untoward noise. I replaced the cable
and shoe last summer and it works very well. I see no
reason to disassemble further to inspect. The brakes all
had a major rebuild summer before last, including
rebuilding all 8 adjusters and new cylinders everywhere as
well as new asbestos shoes. I also adjusted the brakes
after I had the sudden stopping event, and they were
pretty well adjusted already, and all the adjusters were
adjusting by turning the adjusters in the correct
direction, front and rear. No brake drums made any noise
when rotated and all would both lock up and release as
they should when adjusted. Turning the input shaft to the
differential did no t result in any noise, or binding, or
grinding. Both rear wheels turned in the same direction
for several turns of the input pinion. I see no reason to
pull the drums on the taper lock rears yet, so haven’t
done it yet, but may. In short, I have done all of these
things yesterday or earlier. Also, the rear axle was for
sure where the stop was coming from, not the front.
If the drive shaft was assembled into the car
right now, and if the car was on the ground, there is no
reason to think it wouldn’t drive normally.
I am most concerned that I don’t know what
caused it and therefore no reason to believe it won’t
happen again. It was suggested that one of the spider gear
pins is adrift, and that seems worth investigating more
throughly.
Thanks, Mike Moore
300H
I agree, Mike. Check the
easy stuff first, like the parking brake. Then
the brake shoes, even up front. You stated that
when the wheels are off the ground, you can spin
them continuously. When doing that, your
driveshaft is probably not spinning, and the
opposite wheel may be spinning also. Manually
spin the driveshaft to drive the wheels, to see
if it binds up. You may be able to "see" or
"feel" where the resistance is by watching the
reaction of the wheels and u-joint. Also listen
for any unusual noises, like grinding, rubbing,
squeaking, etc.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: ' mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx'
mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx
[Chrysler300] < Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: mmoore8425 < mmoore8425@xxxxxxx>
Cc: finsruskw < finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>;
1970hurst < 1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx>;
Chrysler300 < Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Mon, Nov 2, 2015 10:03 am
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Sudden drive train
lock-up
Too much guess work, Mike. Be
more thorough in your diagnostics before
taking things apart. You're working waaaay
too hard!
--------Marshall
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Michael Moore mmoore8425@xxxxxxx
[Chrysler300]" < Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: David Schwandt < finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Ray Jones < 1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx>,
Chrysler 300 List < Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Sudden drive train
lock-up
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2015 06:34:32 -0800
David,
Also, I am going to check in my
factory shop manual, but I am considering
pulling out the center section only and
leaving everything else in the car.
I had the tapered hubs off last
year, and I have the tools to pull those
properly. Do you know how the axles are
locked in? I am assuming I must pull both
axles to get the center section out.
Thanks Mike Moore
300H
On Nov 2, 2015, at 6:12 AM,
David Schwandt <
finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Quite a
bit!!
More than
you would want to try and load by your (my)
self anyway!!
Good luck
and keep us posted , Okay??
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[ mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of Michael
Moore mmoore8425@xxxxxxx
[Chrysler300]
Sent: Monday,
November 02, 2015 7:51 AM
To: David Schwandt
Cc: Ray Jones;
Chrysler 300 List
Subject: Re:
[Chrysler300] Sudden drive train lock-up
No David, I have not. I am going to talk to a
local machine shop which specializes in drive
train work. I may remove the entire rear end
and haul it down there, as the u joints
don’t seem that bad.
(Do you know how much
an entire rear axle, drums etc weighs? I am
guessing at least 200#.)
Thanks, Mike Moore
300H
< div>
On Nov 2, 2015, at 5:45
AM, David Schwandt <
finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Have you had
either one of the axles out recently?
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[ mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of Ray
Jones 1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx
[Chrysler300] Sent:
Sunday, November 01, 2015 10:41 PM
To: Michael Moore
Cc: Chrysler 300
List
Subject: Re:
[Chrysler300] Sudden drive train lock-up
Not really sure how your
rear is assembled, but it sounds like the
center pin has come loose in you spider
gears and is hitting after one revolution of
the tires/pinion. Go forward and it comes
around and hits again.
Ray
On Sun, Nov 1, 2015 at
10:26 PM, Michael Moore
mmoore8425@xxxxxxx
[Chrysler300] < Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
When I backed it up, after approx
3 ft the drive locked up sharply, as
though I had hit something. But I hadn’t,
and all 4 wheels were clear. It did the
same thing going forward-locking up after
just a few feet.I did this several times and
the distances prior to lockup seemed the
same.
I was able to give it a lot of gas
and slowly it would move, but something was
straining.
This afternoon, after completing
new starter motor installation, I dropped
the driveshaft to have a suspect rear
U-joint replaced tomorrow, but I see nothing
which looked like it was hitting.
On jack stands under the axle, I
also am able to rotate both rear wheels in
either direction continuously without a lock
up. My next step is to remove both rear
drums and ensure there are no broken brake
springs, but if I don’t see anything
there, I have no idea where to look next.
There are no unusual noises when I rotate
the wheels.
Any suggestions?
Thanks, MIke Moore
300H
--
Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an
see us. Ya hear?
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