More info after previous post on this issue of setting idle correctly -- or understanding intent .
It turns out that although both idle screws are obviously there on the 2 carbs and linkage ... They are NOT to be used to set idle . The factory supplement image is marked "do not adjust" at each screw . It should say screw should not touch anything .. Or be removed .
On these setups,only ( and not on WCFB in general ), there are two air bleed screws for idle air, like the large ones on ram cars , but these look like large mixture screws. They are on drivers side of each carb, to rear of secondary throttle shaft .The back one is hidden behind the vacuum fitting/ neutral switch . A few guys emailed me,suggestions about this setup , unaware of this idle air screw deal .. as I was too . So setting idle by front carb idle stop screw is wrong idea . But that screw will change idle .
Further the carbs have to close 100 % or air will go by throttle plates like a normal carb at idle . On my car the fast idle cam tang when off the cam (warm engine ) was hooking under the cam end ---holding the carb from closing 100 % . I am going to add clearance there by bending or grinding end of cam disc . Then carb will close 100 % . Then air is set by bypass air screw . There is no fast idle adjustment except bending that same tab, which would hold carb open resting on cam until choke pulls off . Supposed to be about 1350 rpm. Once all this is working , balancing 2 air screws and 4 mixture screws ( count turns to start ) ought to have it idling as designed . It uses both carbs at idle . They suggest one turn open on 4 mixture screws to start . The 300 supplement explains all this , but to me anyway , is not specific about the idle screws . I have learned something here.. Want to share it . The idle screws are not idle screws . A new issue , my air cleaners are rubbing on underhood pad . That is close !!
More later , ! Progress!!
John
Sent from my iPhone
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