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To all: I cannot believe it but it is absolutely true. My ’62 “Sport” Convertible came from the factory without a front sway bar. The holes are there in the frame for it but it never got installed at the factory. Maybe that guy on the production line was asleep at the chassis assembly line. But somehow it got shipped without the front sway bar. Anyone else out there without the front sway bar on your 300? From Big John McAdams (In Sweltering SoCal) (Probably just as hot in Arizona or maybe even hotter) From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Anna F Noia sa-noia@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] Edward & All I would like to add my story with sway bars, although not a 300 story but can help. I had an Austin Healey 3000, and it had severe under steer (as most everyone knows). I duplicated the front sway with better spring steel and increase the diameter by an 1/8" (to approximately 3/4"); I fabricated a rear sway bar using the same spring steel. I used heat to bend them. Then had them annealed to return them to their proper torsion strength. I converted the shocks from lever arm to tube shocks with a Koni adapters. Then used the rear shock links to connect to the sway bar ends. to make a long story somewhat shorter. With the upsize of the front sway bar and the installation of the rear sway bar. The car went from a scary under steer, to a near "Neutral" controllable cornering abilities! I am a staunch believer in "Rear Sway Bars" and plan on installing one in my '57 300. They are well worth the effort, stock or not. DO IT. IMHO. Best Regards, On Tuesday, June 21, 2016 8:52 AM, "EMills_ATC millserat@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: OK - so Torsional stiffness Torque/Rotation = KG/L where K = Pi/2 x (Radius)4 ---- (Thats radius to 4th power or squared twice - cant seem to make superscripts work) and G is a constant for steel and Rotation is in radians. But all you want to know is difference in stiffness, so take G as a constant and just look at difference in R4th/L And since L is constant here at 40 in, difference in stiffness is simply (.505)4 / (.495)4 or 1.08329 - translated 8.3% difference in stiffness between 300 Sport (or Newport Sedan / Conv, etc.) at 0.99 and H at 1.01 H vs New Yorker 12.8% stiffer H vs Newport wagon 17.5% stiffer And by the way, to convert to stiffness you need distance from center of rod to centerline of tire - if you want absolutes, need to go thru more calcs incl dealing with G Shear Modulus and radians. But unless you are playing with different wheel offsets (going to aftermarket wheels - moving out increases moment arm and increases torsion which effectively "softens" car spring rate - moving in effectively "stiffens" but you get interference) or changing hub dimensions (such as may be if changing to disc brakes, etc). PS - If you are also playing with Anti-sway bars on front only, it would not be unusual to soften spring rate if increasing sway bar stiffness on that end - otherwise you would need to play with back of car to keep handling balance (oversteer / understeer). For example, if you add a rear sway bar to a car that did not originally have one, and you do nothing else (no change to rear spring rate or better front bar increase in stiffness to balance handling), be prepared for rear end to come around fast in a hard turn - potentially severe oversteer condition. (Personal experience, lesson learned) Edward Mills Antique Tractors 1930-1960 Antique Cars 1960-1985 On 6/20/2016 1:45 PM, 'Rich Barber' c300@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] wrote:
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