OK - so Torsional stiffness
Torque/Rotation = KG/L where K = Pi/2 x
(Radius)4 ---- (Thats radius to 4th power or
squared twice - cant seem to make
superscripts work) and G is a constant for
steel and Rotation is in radians.
But all you want to know is difference in
stiffness, so take G as a constant and just
look at difference in R4th/L
And since L is constant here at 40 in,
difference in stiffness is simply (.505)4 /
(.495)4 or 1.08329 - translated 8.3%
difference in stiffness between 300 Sport
(or Newport Sedan / Conv, etc.) at 0.99 and
H at 1.01
H vs New Yorker 12.8% stiffer
H vs Newport wagon 17.5% stiffer
And by the way, to convert to stiffness
you need distance from center of rod to
centerline of tire - if you want absolutes,
need to go thru more calcs incl dealing with
G Shear Modulus and radians.
But unless you are playing with different
wheel offsets (going to aftermarket wheels -
moving out increases moment arm and
increases torsion which effectively
"softens" car spring rate - moving in
effectively "stiffens" but you get
interference) or changing hub dimensions
(such as may be if changing to disc brakes,
etc).
PS - If you are also playing with
Anti-sway bars on front only, it would not
be unusual to soften spring rate if
increasing sway bar stiffness on that end -
otherwise you would need to play with back
of car to keep handling balance (oversteer /
understeer).
For example, if you add a rear sway bar
to a car that did not originally have one,
and you do nothing else (no change to rear
spring rate or better front bar increase in
stiffness to balance handling), be prepared
for rear end to come around fast in a hard
turn - potentially severe oversteer
condition. (Personal experience, lesson
learned)
Edward
Mills Antique Tractors 1930-1960 Antique
Cars 1960-1985
On
6/20/2016 1:45 PM, 'Rich Barber'
c300@xxxxxxx
[Chrysler300] wrote:
HD
suspension may have been an option
on all ’62 Chryslers and included
the thicker torsion bars which
were standard on the H.
Rich
Barber
Brentwood,
CA
Newport
Sedan, hardtop, convertible:
torsion bar 40.0" x .99"
diameter
Newport
station wagon: torsion bar
40.0" x .97" diameter
Sport
300: torsion bar 40.0" x
.99" diameter
300H:
torsion bar 40.0" x 1.01"
diameter
New
Yorker: torsion bar 40.0" x
.98" diameter
------
Original Message ------
Sent:
6/20/2016 1:12:32 PM
Subject:
RE: [Chrysler300] Strut /
Torsion bars
To my
knowledge the
strut rods do
not flex or bend
or twist at all,
they just move a
bit in the
rubber, to allow
the suspension
to move up and
down , while
locating
suspension arm
/ spindle fore
and aft. so that
thickness is a
non issue.
(axial loads
only); rubber
durometer might
change that fore
and aft
stiffness but
not much and
only of value
for that kind of
(rare) loads?
—in case you hit
a very deep
pothole. ; I do
not understand
the torsion bars
at all. It
should be the
other way
around., stock ?
The 300 should
be thicker, as
that is
(factory)
stiffer ; maybe
300 were swapped
to smaller in
the past? Any
chance those
numbers are
inverted? Or 300
sport was really
a very soft car
compared to 300H
; which may be
true.
Interesting
info, that is
for sure.
But I do
not know the
factory 300H
specs. Others
will…
Why would
a Newport be
sprung stiffer
than a sport?
See
listings of
aftermarket /
MOPAR
performance
torsion bars for
B and E bodies,
as a rough
reference?
Thicker bars =
stiffer
suspension ,
mostly, usually
related to
holding up
heavier engines
too. . Might or
might not like
that impact on
ride . ( I like
stiffer)
but------Not
like it is a
race car,
screaming around
corners on a
NASCAR track?
IMHO
Hi Group,
Last year
I installed a
factory sway bar
on my 62 Sport.
In discussion
with Dave Dumais
at the MaCunngie
meet, he said
that it was
likely that the
strut rods on
the doner
(Newport) car
were likely
larger dia. Upon
inspection, I
found that this
was indeed true.
My current strut
rods measure
approx. .015
smaller than the
Newport.
Also, a
measurement of
the torsion bars
also reveals a
difference. My
Sport measures
approx. 970 dia.
and the
Newport at
approx 1.010
dia.
So the
question is -
Would it be
worthwhile to
swap out these
parts to my
Sport. I guess
I'm wondering
what difference,
if any, would I
notice in ride
quality /
handling.
Thanks,
Charlie in
Ottawa
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