RE: [Chrysler300] Problem With Converting To 134A
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RE: [Chrysler300] Problem With Converting To 134A



I worked on a vintage air system in my ’52 dodge (5.7 Gen III hemi) for 2 years before it was reliable. I feel like I replaced everything in the system at least once. 

 

BTW, After the system has been open a few times or for very long you need to replace the receiver/drier with a brand new one.

 

What finally got me moving towards solving the issues was I found a weekend AC guy that would take the gauges on and off repeatedly during different conditions. The goal was to get the optimum balance of low side pressure, high side pressure and lbs of refrig. It took 2 attempts on an average day and a hot day. Now everything seems to work as this is the 2nd summer after we dialed it in.    45 degrees at the outlet.

 

…Jack

 

scooter small.JPG

 

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Tony Rinaldi awrdoc@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Saturday, July 9, 2016 8:33 AM
To: dverity@xxxxxxxxxxx; yahoogroups
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Problem With Converting To 134A

 

  

Hi Don,

 

Thank you for your reply. 

 

Maybe it was my description but I was not talking about the drier near the condenser on the front radiator support. 

 

The bulb or filter on the top line from the compressor that connects and leads to the line that enters the evaporator gets cold but the connection to the evaporator does not. Both the bulb/filter and the line were checked and are open. 

 

When it works, that whole bulb/filter and all line metal and connections get cold entering into the evaporator giving me 59* at the inside vents.

 

Problem is that it shuts down. 

 

Classic Air says it may be the expansion valve that works intermittently. Sometimes allowing cooling and other times not. 

 

Tony



Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone <https://yho.com/footer0> 

On Saturday, July 9, 2016, 9:14 AM, dverity@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

  

Tony,

The biggest clue is that you say the filter housing (receiver drier) gets cold. This means there is a restriction or blockage there. The high side of the system, which is everything from the compressor outlet to the expansion valve, should be hot to the touch. After the expansion valve at the inlet to the evaporator should be cold, and all lines going back to the compressor should also be cool or sweating. Any restriction, anywhere in the system will cause a problem. You already removed the EPR valve, so that eliminates that common problem area, and you have changed the expansion valve, so that should not be the problem. My guess is a problem in the condenser or the drier.

Don

 

From: mailto:Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 

Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2016 9:00 AM

To: Chrysler 300 Club 

Subject: [Chrysler300] Problem With Converting To 134A

 

  

My system is a 1962 installed into my 1960 300-F.

 

A mechanic tried to convert to 134A without taking the EPR valve out of the compressor. It worked great but would freeze up the evaporator and stop working.

 

Sent everything to Classic Air for rebuild and conversion. Their temperature switch makes and breaks power to the compressor blue wire if there is a freeze up. This replaces the function of the EPR pressure valve to cycle the compressor.

 

The evaporator is open and was blown out with compressed air.

 

System was charged and was not cold. 

 

Classic Air said it was a bad expansion valve. Replaced it and no difference. 

 

They said to charge the system with 134A at 80% of normal pressure. So they went down to 2.5 from 3 lbs. 

 

Problem is that the filter housing on the top of the condenser gets cold but the line does not get cold where it enters the evaporator. 

 

They put 4 lbs. in and I got 59 ° at the vents on the highway. 

 

Pull off to the side of the road, with engine running, to see it working well and the cooling stops. Nothing frosting up. 

 

Go back on the road and the cooling does not come back. 

 

Waiting for another expansion valve and on/off switch to be delivered.

 

Will be replacing both once they come in. 

 

Any insight about where we are now?

 

Thank you, in advance, for any help or suggestions. 

 

Tony





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Posted by: "Jack Boyle" <jackcboyle@xxxxxxxxx>
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