Steve,
I was in the same position when I built my 300H. I repaired
a Newport wheel using a two-part epoxy. JB Weld works but it is too viscous
and will run out of the cracks before it is set up. I used PC7. It's a two
part epoxy, exactly like JB Weld, but is a thicker paste (if you insist on
using JB Weld, you will wish you bought the PC7). PC7 comes in 2 cans taped
together, from your local hardware store. Clean and prepare the wheel with a
cleaner and some light sand paper. Make sure there's no dirt or scale
in the cracks. Mix up the epoxy and push it into all the cracks. They tell
you to use a putty knife, but I just used my wet fingers. Oh, and it's very
important to make sure your fingers are wet. Have a cup or bowl of water
with you and keep your fingers wet or else the epoxy will stick to your
fingers for about two weeks. So with wet fingers, you can form and shape the
epoxy to the contour of the wheel. With wet fingers, smooth out the
epoxy to match the form o f the wheel. Let the epoxy set up over night.
Next day, sand it smooth and paint the wheel the desired color. You
will be so happy with the outcome, you may never spend the $1500 for a
restored wheel.
Happy Moparing,
Mark
-----Original
Message-----
From: Sandy Beard
ssbeard2015@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <
Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: chrysler300 <
chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wed, Sep 21, 2016 7:30 am
Subject: [Chrysler300] Steering wheel repair
Good morning 300 ites. For those going to the fall meets
east and west, drive safe and have 300 fun.
Need to do some repair on my F steering wheel. The wheel is
cracked in several places. can't afford a new one at this time( $1500
ouch). Anyone have some ideas/ suggestions on temporary repair that looks
good. Also looking to know what engine a 4
barrel intake manifold dated 1958 might have come off of. looks
smaller then a big block manifold.
Thanks
Steve Beard
300 F
Delaware, Ohio