RE: [Chrysler300] CAR HAS NO LIGHTS EXCEPT HEADLIGHTS

["'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Some observations:

 

Problems with bulkhead connector are usually not all the contacts. Chrysler made a big engineering error by using ¼ Faston connectors for the alternator (Blk) and battery leads (Red) . No amount of fluffing those is going to get that to work long term . Although available with #10 wire crimps (30A) ¼” Fastons  are really barely 15 A connections (EE hat on, not up for arguing, but guys will) . Alternators can be 60 or 80 A , early one was 35 or so, ----what is a marginal connection with 30A  generator even , is no good at all with even more current. Not saying change it,  if working today , more a case of awareness about all this.  

 

The reason for failure is the fairly normal resistance at M-F blade connection  gets worse with time,  causes moderate local heating that then causes oxidation , making it worse, = more heat, which takes out the spring temper of female half, = loose connection that soon opens, or melts plastic recess in connector  . Cleaning helps only for a very short while once this happens as spring temper is gone from gripping side.  Squeezing it down does not fix it for long . One night with heat lights wiper on , heavy charging for a longer time, it opens up/ melts plastic. If apart, dielectric grease, silicone, helps prevent oxidation on all the other pins. 

 

This problem is added to immensely by  air conditioning, or any heavy use, like snow plow on a truck, and 60-80-100 A alternators ,  running through a 15 a connection. All the talk and excuses in the world will not make a 15A fast on carry a 60A charge . They tried various solutions , variations on this connection , none worked--- really. This problem drove me crazy on Dodge trucks in 70’s , early 80’s everyone of them I had (4-5) burns up the bulkhead connector on those two wires..the rest are generally all ok. That stops truck dead, always at worst possible time..once vividly remembered on beach with tide coming in. So the cure is cut off the heavy wires on both sides of it, leaving it alone, and wrap about 1.5” to splice around each other, to solder a foot of extension wire of same gauge (10 or 8) shrink sleeve it twice and run through a new  rubber grommet in firewall next to bulkhead connector--- do same on far side, those 2 wires. DO NOT take a chance with no grommet. A short here to a sharp fire wall edge will destroy your car. Problem gone or at least moved to ammeter terminals that also get loose.*  If you have bulkhead off the car , you can drill out plastic in those connector positions run wire through the hole, looks more stock. That traps connector but so what? The low current connections are generally ok if left alone. You will need a 100 to 250 watt real soldering iron due to big wires. 

 

Many years ago I wrote about this on Warlock/Little Red Truck site..*more detail there on ammeter issues too. Once you do this,  problem is gone ; related on 300’s , have to be careful on alternator upgrades,  as those with generator and early alternator have only a #12 wire for 30A generator in harness..usually black. That should be abandoned and replaced by new parallel wire to ammeter , #10,  or # 8 with good alternator . It is also a good idea I think to add fusible link (Ford uses two sizes ) to main heavy wire power tap at battery relay, in case you get a short . I had a 60 Corvette go up that way, FI electric choke wire shorted to manifold, took out harness. Why the later USA cars  have fusible link….! 

 

I think this was one of the reasons for move to voltmeter, no more ammeter ; too hard to run 60A-80A wires  to dash gauge;  ---with a voltmeter,  heavy #8 wire under hood can run from the alternator right to battery. Then one heavy wire into car, not two. 

 

John 

 

From: Michael Moore [mailto:mmoore8425@xxxxxxx] 
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2017 5:31 PM
To: Ray Jones
Cc: Mark Souders; John Grady; zzub@xxxxxxx; Listsaver 300 Club
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] CAR HAS NO LIGHTS EXCEPT HEADLIGHTS

 

Is there a bulkhead connector on the 64? My 62 has one (which has been a corrosion problem), but I thought they ran the cable through in the next year. 

Mike Moore 

300H

On Feb 3, 2017, at 12:07 PM, Ray Jones 1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 

 

You should pull the Bulkhead electrical block apart and clean ALL the contacts.

I also use needle nose pliers and give the male terminals a "tweek", about 15°.

This makes sure of a positive contact when it is plugged back in.

Ray

 

On Fri, Feb 3, 2017 at 11:50 AM, Mark Souders MRS954@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 

 

Check the heavy gage wire going into the bulkhead connector.

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: 'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: zzub <zzub@xxxxxxx>; Chrysler300 <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Fri, Feb 3, 2017 11:37 am
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] CAR HAS NO LIGHTS EXCEPT HEADLIGHTS

Hi George, this should (fortunately) be easy to fix, a very clear problem(!) just need a print of the 64 car wiring and trace back power supply feeds logically . An EE or electrical tech could do that in 5 minutes. Maybe you can if you have print? I am not sure of exact 64 wiring, mostly I work earlier, but park/tail lighting at one point had fuse or circuit breaker located right on the headlight switch ; however brakes feed separatly and I think directionals --read fuse labels obviously? Check for corrosion or loose wire at brake connection right at fuse block, as blown fuse might indicate loose or corrosion on fuse holder which heats up fuse melting it . new one might not be "making connection" there . Brake lights run through directional switch, (is it OK?--wiggle it) so check carefully any connectors involved to directional switch ..pins are all the way in and not melted or deformed . Hope this helps. No power is easy,----- when it comes and goes is hard!!! Concentrate 
on brakes/brake switch power lead . Believe two separate problems, if no park lights too. 

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx?> ] On Behalf Of zzub@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2017 10:09 AM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] CAR HAS NO LIGHTS EXCEPT HEADLIGHTS

I have a 64 Newport convt. and have lost all of the car lighting except the headlights, map and console lights. Car does not have rear armrest lights. The console is out of a "J" (letter car relevance) and lights are wired in to the courtesy light system. Car has no power windows or seats. Car starts and radio works. Heater/AC is not hooked up and fan is disconnected so I don't know if that system is affected. I have not checked to see if the top operates. I have no brake lights, tail lights, front and rear turn signals, parking lights, dash lights or turn signal indicators.

I found the brake light fuse blown and replaced it. This did not fix the problem but the fuse did not blow again. I have 12V at all fuses so no other blown fuses. I pulled the instrument cluster and had 12V at the ammeter. I replaced the headlight switch and that did not resolve the problem. Has anybody had this lighting problem? Any clues on what to check next?

300Regards,

George Ver Berkmoes


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Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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-- 

Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an see us. Ya hear?

 



 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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