Yes they are all pretty much the same . About .33 uF is right sometimes you see more .5 . A trade of point life vs hot spark . Not super critical to any brand or car . But HAS to work right. However one widely available replacement sourced from china for many years under many brands has a deep X stamped in the can across the end opposite the wire exit or strap . These are total junk . Good only for a year or two. The inward X in the aluminum is used as the only contact to the aluminum foil of the capacitor inside . It presses it internally axially against typically a rubber washer with wire at other end .This "barely touching" contact corrodes over time ( aluminum oxide ) causing intermittent low spark ... rubber can harden too , not a good spring, then it gets loose end to end . This Can really drive you nuts . I found this by cutting open one that did this . In there 5-6 times over sometimes (?) weak spark. Burn marks from arcing / loose connection there at X evident in can The old ones are a far better design . Smooth can end . Keep it if it checks good. . Check with good analog ohmmeter on 100k ohm scale . 2-3 meg ohms or more it is ok . Ohm needle should swing up and then die back to 3+ meg. Or more. Old ones are sold on eBay occasionally -/ grab them . I think they were " Potted" in tar or something . Check them too , as the device was a wound roll of aluminum foils and a wound paper spacer back then . If paper insulation goes bad meg ohms will drop . Now made of plastic , for radios. I have done that . .33/ 630 V Panasonic . Reads infinite ohms. The one on the coil hot lead is for radio noise suppression . It may be larger ., 5 uF . But not super critical . And much easier duty . Only 12 v . The one in distributor can see 400 v at spark. Car runs awful with bad cap. Be sure tower of coil is spotless . And rubber boot good. Mopar coils are known for spark jumping out under rubber coil boot to the two terminals . (! Good spark!!) An Intermittent skip --- worse in rain / damp is the symptom . Look for it in dark at idle . Volts per spark are highest at idle . Dielectric grease there under rubber helps too . Always ground a pulled off wire or use a dummy plug as the extra high voltage you get with no plug load or open circuit will arc inside the coil winding instead , ruining insulation and starting a horde of intermittent ignition problems . Ignition spark testers with the little neon light are good for this test, as it is hard to hold wire not too far away . . My .02 , EE hat on ! Hope this helps.. Also a good time to note that on both Noel and JY 300F , and one I had , the little copper braid jumper wire in the distributor had been taped with black tape as the cloth insulation braid rots and falls off . You CANNOT tape that ! It flexes every time the vacuum advance moves , so it will break off at ends if it cannot flex in the middle or in one case it had jammed the vacuum advance with the tape ball tucked tight against the distributor housing . Very reason it had the loose weave cover was to flex easily . The is like the lead to a generator brush it has to move . All the time . We might look into reproducing that . Or a source ? This is a very common problem , will stop you cold if it breaks off or grounds out . Most are frayed and have broken strands. Super flex very fine strand insulated wire is made by a company called Olflex .. here's to hot sparks! That do not quit! John G Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 18, 2017, at 8:46 PM, Charlie V cv300g@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > Hi Val, > > Do you mean the CONDENSER inside the distributor ? If so the Chrysler part number is 1818757. > > Same number for Valiant, Plymouth, Dodge , Chrysler and Imperial. My guess is that the same condenser was used up until electronic ignition took over...but I may be incorrect on that. > > Some car also had a CONDENSER attached at the Coil. Not sure what that part number would be. > > Good luck in your search. > > Charlie Valentine > > > > > -------------------------------------------- > On Fri, 8/18/17, Val Jeffers edward1108@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > Subject: [Chrysler300] 300 G Coil Capacitor > To: "chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx" <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Date: Friday, August 18, 2017, 4:46 PM > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hey > guys, > I need the above. Any suggestions for a source or what is > the part number ? > > > Thanks, > > > Val Jeffers > > > Virus-free. www.avast.com > > > > > > > > > > > #yiv5036067436 #yiv5036067436 -- > #yiv5036067436ygrp-mkp { > border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px > 0;padding:0 10px;} > > #yiv5036067436 #yiv5036067436ygrp-mkp hr { > border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} > > #yiv5036067436 #yiv5036067436ygrp-mkp #yiv5036067436hd { > color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px > 0;} > > #yiv5036067436 #yiv5036067436ygrp-mkp #yiv5036067436ads { > margin-bottom:10px;} > > #yiv5036067436 #yiv5036067436ygrp-mkp .yiv5036067436ad { > padding:0 0;} > > #yiv5036067436 #yiv5036067436ygrp-mkp .yiv5036067436ad p { > margin:0;} > > #yiv5036067436 #yiv5036067436ygrp-mkp .yiv5036067436ad a { > color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;} > #yiv5036067436 #yiv5036067436ygrp-sponsor > #yiv5036067436ygrp-lc { > font-family:Arial;} > > #yiv5036067436 #yiv5036067436ygrp-sponsor > 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