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Poked a small hole in my radiator and took it a radiator shop yesterday to get soldered. While there I asked for a new 14 lb radiator cap. The owner said I didn’t want one that high and recommended a 7lb cap. After I said that 14 was the factory spec he said he was aware of that BUT for the old style large tank radiators the pressure is too high making them crack along the top seam. The difference in temp is not that great but the stress in the solder is much reduced. He said if you get over 100 C your have problems with your system anyway. I then remembered my parents’ 67 Valiant which had the same top tank design and recalled we must have had the top tank resoldered about 4 times in its life. I said I had never heard a radiator guy recommend a lower cap pressure. He said it was funny that! He also said if I fitted a 7 lb cap he wouldn’t see me for the next 20 years! To reinforce the issue of the big top tank having a flex problem, he pointed out the bottom smaller tank usually never cracks. It all started to make sense. I know this may generate many opinions but I’m willing to give it a try. I thought I might pass this on to people who have the same problem with tanks cracking in an otherwise ok cooling system. If I don’t have any cooling problems at the lower pressure, there is no need to put extra stress on the system. Better the cap lets go rather than the radiator, hose, block plug etc. If it keeps losing too much water, I can always go up in pressure. Cheers Henry __._,_.___ Posted by: "Henry Schleimer" <henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/all/manage/edit For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang __,_._,___ |
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