RE: [Chrysler300] Radiator cap pressure 300C
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RE: [Chrysler300] Radiator cap pressure 300C
- From: "Ronald Kurtz mark6268@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2017 12:22:03 +0000 (UTC)
Hello, everyone:
After stripping down the block of my E, I had to vacuum out a considerable amount of rust and, possibly, casting sand through the freeze out plug openings. some descaling of the cylinder water jackets was necessary. All my Chryslers overheated as they aged. As a temporary solution to this problem, I would find a long hill and coast down it in neutral or put the heat on full blast.
For what it's worth.
Best,
Ron Kurtz
E #292
--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 10/18/17, 'Rich Barber' c300@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Radiator cap pressure 300C
To: "'John L. Chesnutt'" <chesnutt@xxxxxxxxxxxx>, "'Henry Schleimer'" <henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "'Larry Jett'" <LarryWJett@xxxxxxxxx>, "'John Grady'" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "'chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx'" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Wednesday, October 18, 2017, 2:25 AM
Keep in mind that most
boiling, if any, will occur in hot spots in the heads or
block. Even though the coolant in the radiator and hoses
may not be boiling, it very well may be boiling at the hot
spots around the exhaust valves. The higher pressure
radiator cap will enable the temperature to rise during
heavy load/high ambient without the entire coolant load
boiling. The higher pressure will suppress boiling at hot
spots. BTW, from a heat
exchange standpoint, those liquid to air heat exchangers
behind the grilles of our 300’s (and other lesser
vehicles) are more convectors than radiators. That’s why
those HEX work so well when the car is moving and airflow
across and through them is high. My 300’s do not like a
parade. Added electric fans = more air flow at low speed
over terrain. The point made that
restricting the differential pressure between inside the
radiator to the atmospheric pressure will reduce thermal and
mechanical stress on all elements of the system is valid.
The radiator portion of the system is designed to hold this
pressure with a significant safety pressure unless it is
damaged by corrosion or impacts. If your trips don’t
expose your car’s cooling system to heavy loads and/or
high ambient temperatures and/or slow traffic speeds you
might extend the service life of the radiator by using a
lower pressure cap. Finally, an internal
combustion engine will be more efficient when operating at
higher temperatures. Newer engines are designed to run
lean and hot all the time in order to maximize efficiency
and reduce “pollutants”. Lecture concluded.
Take out yellow paper and number 1-10. Prepare for a pop
quiz. Rich Barber,
Professional Engineer Emeritus, BSMEDon’t think about
how that is abbreviated.Thankful that the fire
fighters are getting control over the fires and that the
loss of lives won’t be in the hundreds—even as another
fire broke out south and west of us in the Santa Cruz
mountains, way south and west of Brentwood and near
Sausalito—at the north end of the Golden Gate. A little
rain may come tomorrow night and it will be
welcomed. From:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
'John L. Chesnutt' chesnutt@xxxxxxxxxxxx
[Chrysler300]
Sent: Tuesday, October
17, 2017 7:52 PM
To: 'Henry
Schleimer' <henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>;
'Larry Jett' <LarryWJett@xxxxxxxxx>; 'John
Grady' <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc:
'chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx'
<Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Radiator cap
pressure 300C Hi,
I have
always used a 14# cap and have had no problem for the last
59 years we have had our 1957 300C. Several years ago I
finally put a new core in the radiator as the tubes looked
like they were leaking. The replacement was a four tube vs
the original three tube. The shop that I use said he could
not get a three tube from his suppler. A 7# cap is ok, but I
would rather not lose any water when driving at high speed
on hot days. The four tube took about a half gallon more
water than the original.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of 'Henry Schleimer' henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[Chrysler300]
Sent: Tuesday, October 17,
2017 7:06 PM
To: 'Larry Jett';
'John Grady'
Cc:
'chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx'
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Radiator cap
pressure 300C
241 degrees
is about 6 psi with the 50% coolant mix that I use. The
radiator guy also said there are 10 and 13 psi caps
available.
Cheers Henry
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of Larry Jett LarryWJett@xxxxxxxxx
[Chrysler300]
Sent: Wednesday, 18 October
2017 11:15 AM
To: John Grady
Cc: Henry Schleimer; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Radiator cap
pressure 300C
Can't
speak to the 57 radiators, but on the way to the New Mexico
meet, our 63 300 sport indicated 241 degrees on my Dakota
Digital heat gage and nothing blew on the way up the
Grapevine in 105 ambient. Using the 14 pound cap.
Eat, Drink, and be
Larry........
On Tue, Oct
17, 2017 at 5:41 PM, John Grady jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
I agree with that
100% . Smart guy
Sent from
my iPhone
On Oct 17, 2017,
at 7:47 PM, 'Henry Schleimer' henry.schleimer@optusnet.comau
[Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Poked a small hole
in my radiator and took it a radiator shop yesterday to get
soldered. While there I asked for a new 14 lb radiator cap.
The owner said I didn’t want one that high and recommended
a 7lb cap. After I said that 14 was the factory spec he said
he was aware of that BUT for the old style large tank
radiators the pressure is too high making them crack along
the top seam. The difference in temp is not that great but
the stress in the solder is much reduced. He said if you get
over 100 C your have problems with your system anyway.
I then remembered my
parents’ 67 Valiant which had the same top tank design and
recalled we must have had the top tank resoldered about 4
times in its life. I said I had never heard a radiator guy
recommend a lower cap pressure. He said it was funny that!
He also said if I fitted a 7 lb cap he wouldn’t see me for
the next 20 years!
To
reinforce the issue of the big top tank having a flex
problem, he pointed out the bottom smaller tank usually
never cracks. It all started to make sense.
I know this may generate many
opinions but I’m willing to give it a try. I thought I
might pass this on to people who have the same problem with
tanks cracking in an otherwise ok cooling system.
If I don’t have any cooling
problems at the lower pressure, there is no need to put
extra stress on the system. Better the cap lets go rather
than the radiator, hose, block plug etc. If it keeps losing
too much water, I can always go up in pressure.
Cheers
Henry
[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]
------------------------------------
Posted by: "Henry Schleimer" <henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Posted by: Ronald Kurtz <mark6268@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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