RE: [Chrysler300] 300F

["'Bob Jasinski' rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Keith and all,

 

I’ve been using this product for years:

 

https://www.nyalic.com/

 

It is easy to use and works great, especially as an alternative to having original fasteners replated.  I just bead blast or wire wheel them, spray and let cure.  Nyalic has many uses in car restoration.  Supposedly it came from space technology as well.

 

Bob J

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Keith Boonstra kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Tuesday, May 1, 2018 7:11 PM
To: Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Mick Kreszock <kreszockcm@xxxxxxxxxxxx>; Listsaver 300 Club <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300F

 

 

On the subject of rustproofing coatings, I have recently been intrigued by this NASA-developed coating which seems to have the sort of miraculous characteristics that we car restorers have only dreamed of for use on our iron and steel parts.

 

https://spinoff.nasa.gov/Spinoff2017/ip_7.html

 

I have put in a couple of calls to Earl Ramlow at Polyset to find out where retail consumer quantities of the Polyset might be purchased. So far I have not received a reply from him, but I will continue to follow up. Does anyone else know of this zinc silicate coating material - and where it might be purchased?

 

Keith Boonstra

 

-

 

On Tue, May 1, 2018 at 9:10 PM, 'Ron Waters' ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 

I would think a better solution is to coat the problem areas with a rust sealer/encapsulator, like POR15 or Bill Hirsh Miracle Paint. Even if you added drain holes, water could still get trapped between rubber and the metal.

 

Where did you get the replacement panel ?

 

Ron

 

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From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Mick Kreszock kreszockcm@xxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2018 9:00 PM
To: Listsaver 300 Club
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300F

So the sheet metal to fix the problems with the F trunk opening lip are on the way.  Since this will require plasm cutting, spot welding, body filler, paint, etc.   Would it be wise to fabricate drain holes so this problem doesn't reoccur?  I understand that was the factory fix for the problem.  Did drain holes in the G remedy the rusting issues?

 

Anybody got photos of the G drain hole locations?

 

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Posted by: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>

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