[Chrysler300] 57-58 round motor mounts , maybe earlier?

["John Grady jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I tried to replace the rubber interior of 392 style motor mounts — with the built in bolt (  new ones came from Turkey!) but could not get old one out of its can , despite a lot of pressure by a 1/4 rod through the hole at top onto internal carriage bolt head . New one (for inside ) is very well made , but no tabbed can included  . 
I think the rubber might originally be vulcanised to the outer “can”  from the factory ?  
Upon closer inspection , rubber in old one is in great shape but seems to have allowed bolt to move up into can maybe 3/8” allowing metal to metal contact of a large metal washer with a square hole  ( on bolt) at bottom of rubber ..allowed it to  hit the wall / lip of can , on one side , toward  block . Both mounts like that . 
Problem observed originally was oil pan just about hitting tie rod . Engine down in frame . But again , rubber in the mount looks like new. One mount was completely missing the flat washer with barbs. ( nice ....) 
That flat washer under the rubber has barbs ? to dig into frame , —- this was loose right there for thousands of miles —I can see deep wear marks—  maybe bolt  ( which is on purpose offset in can) tries to slide toward block ? Or all of it just moved up into the rubber ? Looks good — no broken bonds to rubber at bottom , almost as if rubber shortened inside the can somehow ?   Whatever . Decided to keep old one and space up mount 3/8” inch with washers ( which have no barb )placed  under the barbed washer. It seems , just looking at the engineering of it ,  full torque on a  1/2 bolt will clamp this like a rock with friction clamp force to frame , without any barbs at all.  Barbs (and , big clue, square hole ) with  carriage bolt like design might be to prevent turning of bolt shank in  the rubber at the factory engine  install ??  Which would destroy bond. That says outside cannot be allowed to turn , must be vulcanised to can. Point is —- be sure it is torqued to max . at frame. There is a bonded in steel plate showing in the rubber bottom face above the barbed washer so you are not squeezing on rubber if you tighten it .  
Whole situation weird , wonder  what was intended ? Also found out different diameters  of externally similar cans / rubbers exist , 392  vs Dodge? 
I think the old one , spaced up , with good rubber and an apparent strong bond to can is better than a looser fit new one ? Glued in ? Loose? ??? No instructions. 

To cure the hitting — I sawed 1/4 “ off that interfering block side of barbed washer .... 
anyone been in this dance before? 
Thank you ,!!

PS  — probably a common issue — and cure might be capable of causing way more trouble than the problem ... if it ends up loose in can but was vulcanised . It Might lift off ? 
John G  

Sent from my iPhone

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Posted by: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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