Only way to go. Gets rid of all vibration too . For good. I worked a lot with Denny’s Drive shaft , a superb outfit , about 4 years ago on this —turns out CDE and FG shafts are within about 1/4 “ of each other with 4 bolt flange on one end but I kept that 1/4” . One in between would probably work on both . Have made several F and a C or D -/all new shaft made I think from 3” tubing ( from memory now) . Close to floor without taper but fit in my cars fine . Cannot say enough about how good these guys are . No balance weights needed and spin balanced . Slide part is moved to the long part of shaft at front . He may have records of work for me. Or carefully fill out his form available on line . An aside , What I did on two of them for other reasons — but I have never had a problem with stock rear u joint — but it is small . After market larger yokes or later mopar fit our 8 3/4 , and , Chrysler made it larger with stock parts in later years. If an all new shaft , you have that option . Two different spline sizes at pinion , have to get right . Ours is the smaller one. Reasons I did it : 1 car has a challenger rear , done to gain parking brakes with late 727, non e brake tailshaft -/ other had Dana 60 , from Cuda to gain brakes and stronger gears . ( a surprising F coming) . Reasonable cost for all new shaft , one day long fight with Detroit joint and it’s bag , just your time in , buys the new one . And then it vibrates , more or less. Detroit joint a total dog design imho . No matter what you do to it . Belongs behind 90 hp plymouth flathead six, going 50 mph where it came from
John Sent from my iPhone On 14 Jun 2018, at 10:11 pm, Larry Jett LarryWJett@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
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