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Not having a good day. Another error correct: All good at: www.jholst.net service & parts manuals and lots of good Chrysler 300 stuff. Rich Barber Retired Enron Officer “To err is human, to forgive is against company policy.” From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of 'Rich Barber' c300@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] Error correction: The brake section of the 1963 Service Manual may be viewed at: http://www.jholst.net/63-service-manual/brakes.pdf All good at: www.jholst.com service & parts manuals and lots of good Chrysler 300 stuff. Rich Barber From: Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx> Good points. From my experience: Proper arc grinding is done after checking the drum for runout, squareness, hotspots & etc. and carefully measuring its ID. The arc-grinding machine apparently then mounts the new shoes in a fixed position and then grinds or removes parts of the lining to crate the new “OD” of the shoes, net of specified clearance. My technique with new shoes was to install the drum over the new shoes (seldom arc-ground), use the star or other adjuster to lock up the drum, then back the adjuster off until the drum would rotate freely (with some minimal contact). Then drive the car and really stomp on the brakes. Back on the rack to tighten up the shoes again and back them off. Repeat as necessary until the drum “arced” the new shoes. Labor intensive but what the hey—I was only making a buck an hour. Pages 60 and 61 in the 1955 Service Manual show some shoe alignment issues. http://www.jholst.net/55-service-manual/brakes.pdf My 1964 manual does not address these issues. The brake section of the 1963 Service Manual may be viewed at: http://www.jholst.net/55-service-manual/brakes.pdf The problem diagnosis does mention the effect of grooving of the drums to be a potential problem. This might be a contributor to your problems. My brake guy recommends and does a light cleanup pass to remove the high spots of the grooves and assure a round and square inner surface of the drum. This is an interesting and informative thread. Thanks for posting and do let us know if you find a smoking gun. Rich Barber Brentwood, CA From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of 'Mark Lindahl' mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] Hi Ron, I supplied the brake parts, 3 inch wide shoes, grease seals, and new wheel cylinders. The shop ‘ran out of time’, so they only did the front brakes and I did the rear brakes. The rear brakes are fine. :<) Many shops these days do not have the collective experience that exists within the Chrysler 300 Club. If I bring it back, they may not know how to fix the problem, so I am asking these questions to Chrysler 300 experts. Since this problem occurs only when the brakes heat up, the diagnostic section in the shop manual will really not pinpoint the problem. I will check the hoses again. The chatter/noise is the same as 10 years ago so my question to the club is 1) has anyone experienced chatter when installing new 3 “ front brake shoes when the front drum is not resurfaced and/or new brake shoes are not arced? 2) will there be excess heat build-up if there is a problem with either of the two wheel bearings? I don’t really feel much vibration. Since the noise is the same as I heard 10 years ago (that eventually went away), it seems like the chatter/sound is due to the combination of new brake shoes and existing drum. Think of the sound a dump truck makes when it stops. I have owned this vehicle for 30 years and it has not made noises and pulled to the left for 29+ years. I only drive the car after a change is made to see if the problem is corrected. Otherwise, how will I know if the problem is solved? Thank you. Mark PS- the shop manual reads: “Brake Shoe Lining – New lining should be measured and ground 0.060 to 0.080 (maximum) under the drum diameter.” I do not understand how this can be measured without knowing the opening of the star adjuster. Should I assume that the star adjuster should be in the completely closed position before taking the above measurement? From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Ron Waters' ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] Mark - Just a couple of random thoughts... If you have the shop manual, why don't you read the section on brake repair ? There is usually a diagnostic for solving problems. Did you supply the parts, or leave it to your repair guy to come up with them ? It sounds like some incorrect parts have been installed, both now and five years ago. Brake shoes should not crack and linings should not break off. When was the last time the brake hoses were replaced ? A collapsed hose could cause the problem you describe. If your brakes are heating up and pulling like you describe, do NOT drive the car until you have successfully diagnosed and solved the problem. Ron From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Mark Lindahl mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] Hi John, The star adjuster is fairly new and working correctly and the power booster is on the fire wall. The brake pulling just started with the new shoes. Regards, Mark
__._,_.___ Posted by: "Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx> To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/all/manage/edit For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang __,_._,___ |
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