Just FYI, and sorry so long again,-- more from an engineering perspective, ---there is really a lot to this, -----being a press fit with a swage on top , how do you expect to change them? If you just press out old ones by brute force , they have a factory swaged ring on the stud (a deformation ring like a rivet) holding the drum tight to the hub . That ring is, after swaging, a larger OD than the press fit part ,so when you press them out you typically open or damage the hole in hub and drum in some erratic way, and the press fit is gone ,as is the fit on the drum hole , which helped center it and you have no way to swage new ones like the factory did..
They now sell replacement wheel lugs/studs for more popular cars with separate loose drums, in small oversizes , pressed into the axle flanges or front hubs, and they will have no swage to deal with, so much much easier, and that is what ‘mechanics” will know about. . These 300 studs really were meant never to come out of the hub/drum assembly, I think, so “finding a new stud” **is fraught with great difficulty, or especially, changing all the studs to RH . Unless you accept a half xxx result.
As I understand it, to do it right you need a close fitting deep “hole saw’ type tool (like a spot weld cutter, but precision size ) to first cut away the swage off the stud at the drum, without cutting into drum face, (done set up perfectly square in a machine shop) and then cut off the stud, then drill a large centered hole down the middle of it to allow it to collapse inward when pressed out down that hole; without punching out the precision ID hole and location in the hub . Do 5 x per drum?? . And still you should have to have slight oversize studs on the knurl end of the pressed in replacement to regain the press fit . I went through all this, why I think 12” intact drums/hubs with salvageable studs are worth their weight in 500$ of machining time, ---if you ever get there at all?? -- by trying to “replace all the studs “ you may end up with scrap metal or slightly off center wheels or studs . . Or worse , not sure what you have—that causes that nagging vibration. .
None of this will stop , or even slow down a self proclaimed “expert” from pressing out the studs by brute force, destroying the hub precision and then pressing in a stud that is hopefully somewhat larger , probably from a brand X. You might get away with that fine on one stud. But it will probably be RH. A stock new, single “replacement “ LH or RH stud from 1960 , if ever sold like that, was probably already oversize , with instruction to ream the hole in drum and hub while still held by the other 4 studs, to some certain size . I suppose one could press them out one at a time, and find greatly oversize brand X replacements that you then ream each hole one at a time , a lot larger , in sequence to get to a new press size .That was essentially what I ended up doing on a hub I could not find, that HAD a removable drum. The reason I had to do that was someone had pressed them out and holes were wrecked / made oversize by ? drilling them for “new ones” . Not even straight. Loose , stock “new” studs held by locktite (nice) .
Not saying what to do, only saying understand it, and tread lightly here ,and truly deal with the precision issues . **Chrysler must have serviced this as an assembly, like front hubs / wheel bearings on new cars today. .
A Beautifully executed , if dated concept (the taper, removable wheel attachment hub) )-- but hub will always run perfectly concentric on a taper , and if part is made right so will the drum and 5 bolts ; this was expensive to do, like the tapered rear wheel bearings. Like the hemi , for that matter. Now they typically locate the drum on an axle pilot , wheels by tapered nuts on wheels etc. Could not be done as precisely then, ?? but today, probably CNC lets it work . As far as durability, 300-B racing says it all. Vs. Chevy axle failures in racing use all the time with flanged axles, loose drums , leaking seals ..ball bearings
You know , if you have the right 5 arm tool, pulling these is not a big deal. How you pull a modern loose hub without bending it when the center pilot rusts solid? Nothing to pull on although some have tapped holes.
Save even “junk “ 12” drums/hubs ,--- do not let them rust. All of this is an evaluation from looking at it, ---but maybe drums were serviced by Mopar separately, with some special tooling to do all this. Anybody know?
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of milwaukee241@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2018 11:10 AM
To: rjklinczar; dave.dumais@xxxxxxxxx; Chrysler 300 List
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] LH wheel studs
Would these work? https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/wheel-studs/wheel-stud-thread-size/1-2-20-in-lh
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On Monday, October 1, 2018, 7:09 AM, rjklinczar rjklinczar@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Dave, right in my neighborhood is McGard, who manufacture and sell wheel studs. Not sure if they have your LH, but I remember changing all of mine out. If they dont have what you need I dont know who will. McGard, California Road, Orchard Park, NY 14127. Look them up and call sales. Ron Klinczar 65 300 in Ice Blue
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-------- Original message --------
From: "Dave Dumais dave.dumais@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: 9/27/18 8:58 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: Chrysler 300 List <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Chrysler300] LH wheel studs
All,
I need 1 LH wheel stud for my 64 front hub.
The rear hubs I think I will use right hand studs, easier to find.
I have done a good search, to no avail.
Any positive sources would rest my mind.
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