Re: [Chrysler300] Driveshaft "clunk" on 1957 300C

["Ray Melton rfmelton@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks for all the quick replies.  I didn't know there was a Club Technical Article page on the topic of U-joint modification; guess I should have looked there first!  However, after looking at John Grady's conversion and the handwritten sketches to accompany the form from Denny's Driveshaft, I think my odds of getting it done right (and from such a distance from New Mexico to New York) might be pretty slim.   I did find a post from John in 2017 about his experience with Denny's Driveshaft, and perhaps his trailblazing with them might make any subsequent  conversion task simpler if they can directly apply his measurements.     Here is a link to John's posting:     http://ns1.forwardlook.net/300-archive/msg49944.html       

I also found that Driveshaft Specialists in San Antonio, Texas      http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Left-Column/Antique-Classics.html            sells a complete kit using Spicer XL U-joints for about $400 + shipping; but they need a few measurements to ensure the right fit.  Some of the measurements on their printed form look similar to John Grady's sketches, but in a bit simpler and more legible form, although I can still see several places for confusion or misunderstanding of what measurements they need. 

I also wonder if maybe the outer body of the joint may be worn inside, providing excessive clearance for the balls in the rebuild kit from Mark Sherman - that might explain why the new joint is still loose almost immediately after installation.    Has anyone experienced noticeable wear of the inside of the heavy outer housing?   Doesn't seem very likely.       And maybe I can push the outer housing back far enough and remove the end caps to see if all the needle bearings are in there (after removing the sheetmetal endpiece), although I can't imagine my very conscientious mechanic putting those end caps on without all the needle bearings completely filling the circumference around the cross-shafts. 

Wear in the parking brake mechanism was also suggested as a potential source of slop.  

But the consensus seems to be that this noise is pretty normal and probably does not indicate possible escalation to real damage or failure, so all in all, I think I'll just try to get used to the "clunking"!  Definitely a cheaper and less stressful route!

If anyone is interested, there's a worthwhile youtube video on how to rebuild the ball and trunnion joint and especially a tip on installing the pesky rubber boot, although my restorer couldn't see it at the time (back in 2013) because the video was only made in late 2015.   Here's a link to that video:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBtEgMJFis8

Ray Melton

On 10/18/2018 1:37 PM, Bob Merritt wrote:

John Grady has a page on

drive shaft modification

if you want to go that route.

See http://www.chrysler300club.com/tech/driveshaft/1.html

------ Original Message ------

From: "Ray Melton rfmelton@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

To: "Chrysler 300 Club, Int'l" <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Sent: 10/18/2018 2:36:16 PM

Subject: [Chrysler300] Driveshaft "clunk" on 1957 300C

 

Hello All -

Barely a year and 1,000 miles after a comprehensive restoration on my
late father's 1957 Chrysler 300C, I am noticing  a pretty loud "clunk"
and "jerk" when initially engaging a gear (either R or D) from neutral,
and also when the transmission shifts from 2nd to 3rd under light
throttle.  Inspection underneath shows that the rear (conventional)
U-joint is nice and tight (it was replaced during the restoration), and
there is minimal backlash from the ring and pinion gears.  However, the
noise definitely seems to be coming from the front driveshaft joint (the
ball & trunnion type) which was also replaced during the restoration,
and there is considerable rotational play (1/4" - 1/2") at that joint
connecting to the transmission.  The rubber boot around the joint
precludes visualization of any play in that joint, so I can't tell where
the looseness is occurring.   The long hollow driveshaft really
amplifies the clunk and rings like a bell!   I can't think of any reason
for that joint to have degraded so significantly in such a short time
and mileage.

I recall from previous conversations that the "ball & trunnion" joint at
the front of the driveshaft has been a frequent point of concern, and
instead of just replacing that joint with another new one of the same
type, I am wondering if there is a "conversion kit" available whereby I
can convert to a traditional U-joint design.

Any thought and suggestions would be welcome.

Ray Melton  Las Cruces, NM     1957 Chrysler 300C  cvt White/Gauguin  
S/N 3N572517

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Posted by: Ray Melton <rfmelton@xxxxxxx>

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