Re: [Chrysler300] Double master cylinder on J/K Ram Cars, brakes general

I find this very interesting . I had a J that fought me hard on brakes . I rebuilt everything. For years hassles , lack of trust. I discovered that hydro boost units are very common on gas engine medium size trucks like 18’ straight bodies . My problem turned out to be a fool had been in there , long ago, put booster together wrong . Wrong parts. ( brakes locked sporadically ) . Find a truck repair place .. they know how to rebuild .

I also understand that the ? 67 dart small bore master is a fit on some of our ram cars non or power , but you MUST change pedal arm and MC mount plate if no power . Manual brakes have a totally different pedal ratio and thus different master mount height on firewall. Gives more pressure for same foot force. About 1.5x more .

.. Dodge manual parts work on 60 F . I had new stock non power brakes on 60 dodge it worked great . Why I went that way on a “hot F” like Mike. ( low vacuum) Also dart 67. 4 drums .

Right now have AAJ /GM front, F rears on 57 dodge no power . Not driven yet but troubled by low pedal . GM discs seem to need a lot of fluid , and pull back more than expected . Master from AAJ supposed to have the right valve , but seems not effective ? I saw wilwood came out with 4 psi valve ( was two psi marginal?) adding a 2 right now to AAJ TBD . Big fan of silicone brake fluid but can be a bear to purge air . Not sure if pullback or STILL air somewhere .

On J , I agree keep stock , perfectly done . SS probably not needed with silicone, Imho. Does not rust .use especially in master to booster circuit . I have a 60 matador with dual master manual brakes , silicone , the right brake arm ratio and firewall plate AAJ kit , it works ok . FYI I think the J Bendix brakes need more psi than the earlier total contact leading shoe design .makes manual brakes tougher . Not sure if manual brakes were on 63 Chrysler ,? if so you need those pedal parts.

Any comments on GM pullback issues ? or Residual pressure valves appreciated .—what pulls it back? Seems to be just the rubber . Have not been inside it.

Hope this helps, John
Ps , while on brakes , some info: the vacuum canister on F ,G etc in fender can get small rust hole . Poor brakes poor ram idle . Drive you crazy . Flat spring hook can be put back on wrong side of adjusting cam in wheel backing plate (!) , not shown well in FSM . Saw that twice . Will not adjust right. Need 2-3 k miles for new brakes to bed in , lots of adjusting then great . Do not get discouraged . Will lock in spring, ( normal!) sometimes violently — apply them backing up . Rust in drum causes that .

Sent from my iPhone not by choice

On 23 Apr 2019, at 8:05 pm, Mwl1967 mwl1967@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Keith,

I did a dual reservoir master cylinder on my Stroker, 5 speed, EFI Ram K when converting to 4 wheel discs. I had a late model aluminum MoPar Performance part on the adapter (2 bolt master to 4 bolt firewall) and it was the large 1-1/8" bore cylinder. Pedal was high and firm ,required two feet to stop the car which is tough when you've got the manual trans equipped, tiny brake and clutch pedal. Went to a 1967ish, smaller,dual reservoir iron master, sent it out to have it stainless steel sleeved and rebuilt with no residual check valves and tried that. It also had a smaller 1.00" bore. Theory is it creates higher pressure more suited to a non-power application but the trade off is a longer throw and so much throw it was scary. Neither part left any confidence to drive the car let alone stopping abruptly should the need arise.

Next up we swapped in a freshly rebuilt original slave/booster setup but plumbed only the front brakes through it at the suggestion of Roger at AAJ and couldn't get any, as in zero, pedal with either large or small bore master cylinder. Not sure if the (GM) disc brake caliper required so much volume that the slave portion of the cylinder couldn't fill it... I'd be surprised as those single piston calipers are puny by today's standard. Tried everything we could dream up, even putting some (I think) 2lb residual valves inline to see if that helped. With the only thing remaining to try being an electric master cylinder guaranteeing up to 2000psi at a cost of about $1400 I threw in the proverbial towel and put the 4 wheel drums and single (although stainless sleeved) master back on the car. (At some point I'll sell off the EFI, rams and stroker engine and go back to my carbureted 413... and probably ditch the 18" Centerline billet wheels for the caps and whitewall tires and enjoy the car relatively stock again)

In the early 90's I was stuck with the 4 wheel drums without a remote booster for the first two years I had my K convertible. It wasn't pleasant but I got by until I came across a rebuildable booster ( mine was rotten through and through ). I don't know why you wouldn't run power brakes if you've got the correct parts. Get it rebuilt and stainless steel sleeve everything. I'm not sure the perceived added safety factor of the dual reservoir offsets the lack of stopping distance when sacrificing power assist on such a big car.

Michael Laiserin

-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Langendorfer keith_A_Lang@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tue, Apr 23, 2019 5:10 pm
Subject: [Chrysler300] Double master cylinder on J/K Ram Cars

Hi Folks

Has anyone done this? Was wondering if the longer master cleared the rams on the driver side. I’m installing a manual master brake system on the 4 speed K to allow for the ram intake on the drivers side (I’m not interested in doing a remote brake booster) and am considering a dual master for the usual safety reasons

Any feedback would be appreciated!

Keith

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Posted by: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

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Re: [Chrysler300] Double master cylinder on J/K Ram Cars, brakes generally