Agreed! Rick Haynes Dutkiewicz Sent from my BlackBerry - the most secure mobile device - via the Rogers Network
The resistor is totally out of circuit at full brightness , 12 v battery volts goes direct to lights so changing it will do nothing for that .. No burning of wires or anything ,or blown fuses right ? ( would indicate short to ground ) Maybe brighter bulbs in same base or try LED replacements ? If contact were bad , it would flicker etc .. some of that is normal when not full on . But at end of travel contact sits on 12 v rivet connection on any I have seen . When resistor is bad or burned open ( a short does that ) you get no lights then full on at end . One way to check is find out 12v dash light wire color , off FSM diagram at switch — test voltage there , lights full on .usually that wire also accessible at radio or ash tray etc. Orange wire on most mopar . If volts same as battery within a half volt the switch is fine . Bulb issue ?? . Not sure what year you have , if electroluminescent dash ( 60-62) AC power pack can be bad . Should be 200 v + AC on white wires full on . On those years a 12 v bulb under heater switch you can see if bright enough . ( 12 v part is ok then)
Sent from my iPhone not by choice On 29 Mar 2020, at 6:48 pm, Marshall Larson granitledge@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
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