Re: [Chrysler300] 1962 383 Build Questions...
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Re: [Chrysler300] 1962 383 Build Questions...





New guy here... Just joined... 

Matt, 

I recently built an engine for a friend's 1970 340 T/A Challenger and he sourced engine bolts from Classic Industries. For the most part, they looked correct, with the right washers, plating and head markings. Of course, these are always aimed at the late sixties/early seventies muscle car engines, but for the most part, big block Mopar engines are big block  Mopar engines.  It would probably be safe to presume that they would work and look correct. 

A great source for bolts that look and work correctly is  R/T Specialties - Mopar Fasteners, Clips & Hardware    He also has smaller packages for sub assemblies and often has correct fasteners that no one else has. 




John




On Monday, April 20, 2020, 12:42:06 PM EDT, Jamie Hyde jamie.hyde@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


 

If it is a wedge, you can buy complete engine bolt kits from vendors on Ebay and Mancini, but mostly they will be for the 6 bolt valve covers.

 

https://www.manciniracing.com/reenbopa.html

 

 

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Grady jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 12:34 PM
To: Matt Allyn <allynentertainment@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Chrysler 300 List <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 1962 383 Build Questions...

 

 

Matt , generally any bolt  used for fastening ( not head bolts) needs to enter the female thread at least as much as its own diameter. 150% -200 % of that diameter is much better , if tapped deep enough . . So you can figure that out . Buy boxes of grade 8 hex cap screws  and lock washers , in a few sizes , will cost less and far less time than trying to do this to some exact spec number of single bolts  . Some holes may be tapped blind forcing slightly shorter , some bolts will have flat washers and lock washers . 

Someone like ARP May have B block bolt kits with better , but possibly non stock looking fasteners , maybe a listing of those helps  you to 90 % but engines vary . Holes into water need sealant on them . I use stainless steel often , have boxes of the sizes commonly used . See Amazon  .. Albany County Fasteners very good , great prices . 

studs on exhaust manifold would have to come from auto supplier or ARP

Good luck , John 

Sent from my iPhone not by choice 


On 19 Apr 2020, at 11:14 pm, Matt Allyn allynentertainment@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

If any knows answers for any of the following; that would be grand!

 

  • Intake Manifold Bolts - I know there are 8.  Anyone know the sizes?  Some are longer due to the air conditioning brackets.
  • Water Pump Housing Bolts - I know there are 6.  Anyone know the sizes?
  • Thermostat Housing Bolts - Anyone know their size?
  • Valley Pan Cover Bar Bolts - I know there are 6 of them.  Anyone know what size they are?
  • Valve Cover Bolts - I have the 6 bolt covers.  Anyone know what size they are?
  • Exhaust Manifold Studs & Nuts - Anyone know what sizes are needed?  I know at least one of them is longer due to a bracket attaching to it

And Finally....

  • The Rocker Shafts & Arms that I have....
  • They have 4 Spacers; Is that correct?
  • I read that some had 5 Spacers; 2 that were thicker that the other 3?
  • Which is correct?
  • And / Or - If I wanted to buy new, stock Shafts & Arms; who would you suggest?

 

Thanks!

Matt Allyn



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Posted by: John Sager <cleanthegarageout@xxxxxxxxx>


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