RE: [Chrysler300] over heating 1964 300 K convert A/C
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RE: [Chrysler300] over heating 1964 300 K convert A/C





Hi Rich, Dave and his K here.

Thanks for the insight on dash light info.
Same thing with me, lights on when key is in run position.
Not at the house, I wrote it all down, no copier in my truck.

My red indicator for high beam is also lit along with dash lights. 

My right green turn indicator is off, due to the high beam light flashing in its place.

Last anomaly,  when  wipers are on with headlights also  on, they turn slow until lights are turned off.

There is no meat in this poo pie.

I have successfully replaced the steering box.

Steer wheel was removed, had to get back to work project and Supervise.

I had replaced ligjt switch, the tangs on fuse box are lightly corroded, all bulkhead and other harness connections have been cleaned.

I may think of ground jumpers for both halves of dash chasis

Fixing the dash is the last process before body and paint.

Any extra thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

Dave D in VA


Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

On Sun, Aug 9, 2020 at 3:54 PM, 'Rich Barber' c300@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
<Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
 

The temperature gauge depends on proper operation of the +5VDC Voltage limiter in the fuel gauge.  The Voltage limiter can be upgraded to solid-state and calibrated at  www.jcauto.com         Buy a contactless IR temperature gun and shoot the radiator, water pump, thermostat housing to get a cross-check on the temperature.  I’m told that ignition timing can impact heat generation within the engine.  The cooling system is most challenged when idling in stop and go traffic with the A/C on.  I hope you had your engine block cleaned and flushed when you had the radiator re-cored and that the fluid-filled fan clutch is fully locked at the high temperatures.

 

Check the “INSTR” fuse which protects all the dimmable lights in the dash, clock & HVAC control and radio lamps..  The clips in the fuse box are subject to corrosion and are hard to clean.  Twisting the headlamp switch knob all the way (I think to the left-CCW) should display all the lamps at full brilliance even if the dimmer resistor in the headlamp switch is defective.  The headlight switch must be pulled out half or full and the ignition switch in “RUN” position.

 

Turn signal indicators should flash with the front and rear turn signal lamps.  The power to the LH & RH indicator lamps on the dash come from the same place on the connector as the F&R turn signal lamps.  The turn signal and indicator lights are totally independent from the dimmable lamps.  Do you have the external lamps working but not the indicators?  Do you have a tilt wheel?  There is a little jumper to connect the GM/Saginaw tilt column wiring to the Chrysler wiring harness and one of the connectors in white/clear plastic can be brittle and fail.  Each of the individual printed circuit boards on the instrument panel are grounded in two places each to the panel chassis with that chassis grounded to and through the steel of the dash/cowl.  If any of these four small screws were missing or loose, various bulbs would not function.

 

What parts did you replace?  The headlight switch?  Flasher? Wiring and switch in the column?

 

Rich Barber

Brentwood CA (Headed for 101F today)

 

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Harry Torgeson torg66@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Sunday, August 9, 2020 9:56 AM
To: Chrysler 300 List <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Chrysler300] over heating 1964 300 K convert A/C

 

 

Hi group I need help on overheating, the radiator was record and at 100 degrees for two days it overheated, could I need a different thermostat, do not know what I have now. Also a new problem, the dash light dimmer does not work and the turn signal indicator also failed which both were just replaced with aftermarket parts, any Idea for a source of reliable parts?

 

Thanks group

Harry Torgeson



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Posted by: Dave Dumais <dave.dumais@xxxxxxxxx>


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