| thanks Mike , I left that offset in the mount rubber out of all this discussion as the slots under the mount let you deal with that a little bit . I agree new rubber — the hole in new rubber is offset , too — right ? What you mean by arrow ? I got new rubber from Turkey of all places ( for that Dodge ) but could not get the old rubber biscuit free of can . I decided might be vulcanized to can ? I used hydraulic press could not move it . Thought about burning it out . But center bolt thing had gone up into can about 3/8 , otherwise ok ? so just shimmed it 3/8 over slot with large washers that did not hit can sides . Both sides were that way , ( no way was rubber coming out) — decided if in that solid , a new loose one might not be as good ? Unsure about all this , re : vulcanized ( must have been)’but so far so good . When bolt moves up into rubber , the oil pan can touch crossmember , can outside can touch motor mount , and in that car , engine was not level side to side either . by leveling on hoist and tightening one side in slot then letting other side down , fixed that too . weird setup ... Note that reversing mounts R and L I think reverses that offset too . Why I mentioned many subtle non obvious ways to assemble wrong . And all fits together ok , wrong Sent from my iPhone not by choice Pics, swaped the early open cup mount and put in new insulators. Old open insulators was collapsed and cups/mount out of round. First I got confused when new engine/tranny in place pointed the engine offset to passanger side. Checked it over and now to my understanding it is correct in place. I fitted the tranny mount first and then placed the engine mounts with new insulators having the marked arrow towards the block. I can take mesurments pics etc if you want me to,, just give me a note. /Michael
Hi all .
Working on 300c convert partially assembled by others , very careful work ,but maybe some significant errors . Just sharing experience data , and hoping to find answers too . What follows can happen to anybody ....
we noticed today the tail shaft of the trans is shifted to driver side , drum almost hits driver side floor and this led to noticing whole engine seems angled side to side in frame . I measured front pulley to torsion bar centers , engine is purposely I think shifted by Chrysler to the passenger side by design , approaching a 2” offset . Note this does not matter to driveshaft or rear u joint — if parallel. Rear pinion is parallel to frame ( 90 degree to axle has to be) says engine must be parallel too , for U joints to work right ( hmmmm— re : U joint hassles)
Quick take — it looks like trans mount crossmember (not the rubber mount ) can go into frame 180 out , shifting tail the opposite way (!) . TBD .There are also multiple lower rubber trans mount holes in that crossmember . (?) . I would expect engineering wise engine axis is to be in vertical view parallel to frame / torsion bars? And thus pinion . sideways offset is ok if parallel .
Also says engine mounts are asymmetric or frame weld on front mount places are. Or both . heads up .
Related possibly , I had an awful time for a while last year with a 57 dodge that had been apparently assembled (unknown to anybody— especially me) after a PO engine rebuild ( not by me) with engine mounts swapped left and right and on wrong side of block tabs . that moves engine back and forth . Trans rubber mount was redrilled and was sitting off the crossmember . All the same parts as 300
This one presently has 392 block tabs located behind the mount steel , moving engine back , (? correct) and fan clutch is about 3/4 from radiator . But tie rod is just about touching oil pan drain dip , looks wrong. Block Tabs are maybe 3/8 thick , I might fix that ( if wrong ) by relocating mount tabs ? = engine forward 3/8” ?? Compounding figuring that out, it had wrong tie rod ends, new , too long to adjust properly (from taper bolt to adjusting thread ) and the offset bend was a little different , could not adjust right , that was first clue . now correct 57 ends, but tie rod still very near pan . like 1/8” ?? Ok , -normal or not ?
Anyone ever get into this ? there are 4 ways front mounts can be put in wrong - Rand L and forward back of tabs? it seems.
??? ? normal spacing fan clutch to radiator and tie rod to pan? trans end normal offset to passenger side ?? There are Several tie rod part numbers too . (??)
As those round mounts age , or get oil on them, they tend to sag engine down — pin inside goes up into rubber but imho still serviceable ; on Dodge we put about 3/8” spacer washers under each , raised engine back-up, all is good .
Next , E brake on C was assembled completely missing the straight lever multiplying bar from the pull handle up to pivot pin above . Cable end “U” is now attached direct to handle , which cannot work . I now need that bar and pins ( help !!) cable normally attaches to that lever or “ratio bar “ by a through pin directly opposite cable fire wall hole . Been into that area before — end U breaks off had to weld to fix . Grip on E brake handle on this C is down , yet on 58 we have it is facing up . Is that right ?
This is a very nice car , but I think assembled without good pictures or another one to look at . that is hard...
I will Have to go through end to end..
Carefully done work , but lacking knowing how it was ? ( = take pictures)
Last — and this can drive you to Jack , convert roof cloth seems put on purposely front slightly offset (3/8” toward passenger side) ) , on roof frame and trim ,yet edge of cloth on driver’s side hangs down too much , such that driver window hits it . Head is hurting as to why this ? Rubber on roof rail seems ok , related to window . not into this just yet , but someone may have fought this one already . ? .= somehow Height of convert frame rail on one side when latched ? gap there in roof rail at arm fold is closed .. roughly ok ??
The first day!!
John
Sent from my iPhone not by choice
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