{Chrysler 300} RE: [Chrysler300] door adjustments
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{Chrysler 300} RE: [Chrysler300] door adjustments



I found that the door rubbers that I purchased over the years from Gary
Goers were too dense and as a result, caused doors to stick out, since there
wasn't enough compression in the rubber. How did your doors fit before
adding the weatherstrip ?

Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of 'Henry Schleimer' henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2020 5:49 AM
To: 'Gary Nelson'; 'Michael James'; 'RICHARD HUSS';
chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] door adjustments

My 300C driver's door has a similar problem.  I also had a problem trying to
get the door glass to align with the rear glass so everything is on its
extreme adjustment.  So, please check you have enough adjustment left in
your glass before trying to twist the door.

 

My C's passenger door was replaced in its lifetime with a 1958 door..   It
fits fine, so I put the whole thing down to poorly jigged door construction
in 1957 with the new model.

 

When my car came back from the painters, I (and the panel beater I assume)
didn't notice the problem with the door fit until I eventually put the new
door rubbers on and the bottom wouldn't close properly.  So with new paint
and glass fit problems, I'm going to live with it as it is.  The
consequences of twisting the door could be worse.

 

All the best

 

Henry

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of 'Gary Nelson' gnelson@xxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Thursday, 10 December 2020 7:23 AM
To: Michael James; RICHARD HUSS; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] door adjustments

 

  

I think you need to rack the door. With a piece of 1/4" steel bar, about 1"
wide X 6" long, drill a 3/8" hole through the center. Then drill a 3/8 hole
at bottom of inner door skin. Insert bar stock and put a 3/8 eye bolt thru
door skin and the bar with a nut on inside. Now you have a good solid place
to pull on door skin without damage to sheet metal. Block the top of at
least 6" open, then w/ come-a-long secured to opposite side, you can hook to
eye bolt and start pulling, 

doors will rack. I did it on my 300C that came from factory with bottom edge
of driver dr. sticking out 1/2", common to all 57's, it works. At first I
would give it a good pull then release to see if if changed. If better but
not complete you could pull and let it sit over night. You don't want to
over pull it, it is possible buckle outer skin. 

 

Good luck,

 

Gary

 

From: mailto:Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 

Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2020 4:19 AM

To: RICHARD HUSS <mailto:rhuss214192@xxxxxxxxxxx>  ;
chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 

Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] door adjustments

 

  

If by in you mean flush with the rocker, you may want to adjust the striker
on the body of the car, not the door.


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone <https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS> 

On Tuesday, December 8, 2020, 6:26 AM, RICHARD HUSS rhuss214192@xxxxxxxxxxx
[Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

  

I just tried to install "hang" the passenger door on my 300G I did nothing
more than remove it and strip and prime it. now I can't get the bottom of
the door in far enough. I have adjusted the bottom hinge all the way in. It
still is out a 1/4" + along the bottom. Top is fine. the front finder is
lined up with the rocker so I don't want to bring the finder out. Any hints?


Also I am still struggling with the hood shutting all the way. I am able to
get both sides to close evenly but still up on both sides a 1/4 or so. 

Thanks for any help before I take a hammer to it. Richard





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------
Posted by: "Henry Schleimer" <henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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