Last Summer the shop that was doing a complete restoration , purchased a complete wiring harness for my 1961 300G. You have to specify the 1961 Chrysler 300G coupe or convertible, main hardness, also special to the G is another harness for the power windows and a complete head light and tail light harness. They number and have a description sheet where each wire goes. Example: Coil resistor (terminal opposite #7) to “Ign 2” on ignition switch to “+” on coil. Also supply drawings of conections. They were great Ynz Yesterday’s Parts 333 East Stuart Ave Unit A Redlands, CA 92374 909-798-1498 Take a look at their web page. They sell a hole lot more than just wiring harnesses. Thanks Frank Newhouse 1961 300G coupe Sent from Mail for Windows 10 dealing with that harness stuff right now, as getting old I have no chance of sneaking behind dash unless i pull front seats and brake pedal . Did that but still punting psychologically on doing it .And may not be able to . To pull dash it seems one would have to undo engine harness and pull out as one piece 57-61 , otherwise no rope to move dash . I believe windshield has to come out on some? And column . Or take out subassemblies like gauge cluster radio etc to get in there , wheel still in the way . That pulling modules itself a huge job .How did they ever fix this stuff ? Any input on this , — ??? beyond finding an 8 year old or midget who can fix it . Your point about area behind push buttons on F so true. Even with dash out of car getting directional light connector apart or together and out of way almost impossible . 10 lbs in five lb bag. Extremely aggravating fact on this car the dash is full of those moronic ( only word that fits) blue “insulation displacement “tap style push on self cutting splices , like 15 of them hanging down . Never buy a car with those your wiring is ruined , the strands break right there, and as an EE I think not safe period. Sure sign that an electrically incompetent person worked on your car with 5 $ box of napa splices and did half azz work. Already pulled 10-15 out of front of car , even joining headlight and parklight wires exposed to water . Could say a lot more about things found but enough . Yes we miss Greg’s top quality work , he told me he disposed of all the tooling and layout boards to make our harnesses into dumpster when he stopped . That should have gone to one of the harness guys or even ? Quirey .
Recently worked a bit with YnZ in california on 50 Packard harness , I was impressed , a guy named Chris knows his stuff , one day process great interaction . Back ordered . Fair price. Not sure if he has our harnesses , remember some are specific to 300 only , such as F power seats / console which I had bought from Greg. Sent from my iPhone not by choice After 60+ years, even a well cared for F or G has wiring harnesses that no longer have supple insulation, making it easy for cracks or missing pieces to appear, especially if you have to get up under the dash to work on a light switch or ignition switch and push or pull on the wires. When I restored my 57, I bought a new harness from club member Greg, but I had the entire dash out of the car so it was an easy task (relatively). I was also 25 years younger then! I don't know if Greg or anyone else ever offered F or G wiring harnesses, or if I am even up to ripping the dash out of my 'never been apart' G convertible. Starting in 62, there was at least a bulkhead connector to make the job somewhat easier (with its own inherent problems), but on a 61 convertible that area behind the dash on the left hand side is pretty crowded (emergency brake, power pack, light switch, convertible top switch, mirror control, power window loom, power seats, etc.) I imagine it's potentially even worse if the car has A/C? It's much easier to rewire a stripper pick up truck from the 50's with radio/heater delete. ;-) brings up adding a main fuse at starter relay too . Waytek sells a small one bolts hold fuse . use 50-60 A , 10 ga wire . This past year I saw two ( F ,G ) burned harnesses . Destroyed . One started where red feed wire to circuit breakers in left kick panel ( PW , PSeat , feed) had shorted on the sharp sheet metal edge of the punched holes in stamping near there . Add sleeve , ? split fuel line hose ? if in there . Cut right into wire . Or that plastic U stuff on edge . Other one had shorted to the metal dash back — in ignition switch area due to an animal replacement of ignition switch stake ons . Guy had twisted main wires to switch together to extend and half azz taped . Not even soldered . Sent from my iPhone not by choice --
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