| Consider this a sort of erratic heads up —- while having no hard info to add , I remember a fiasco where auto parts store sells you essentially a 440 pump (or two ) today for all B blocks . The various pumps all “cross “ to one or two - you do not know that . OK 95% of time I am sure . While maybe not true on K I believe there are differences in depth it goes into casting , on E F maybe G (?) — but seemingly fits fine. and some early 413 front castings had shaped metal plates inside behind pump to distribute or guide water , later eliminated ; if that gets crossed up you can have a space left behind impeller — and pump is not efficient . —— add in ac or not . In the one I had trouble with , the new design AC pump I had , actually had fewer vanes not more , than AC pump on the car the story was more open area = more gpm special 3D blade shape . But mopar performance must be right, what Bill says. And various pump designs/ suppliers . —- The fewer blades thoroughly confused me , added on top of depth issue, but upon checking — if I recall all this correctly , that fewer blades was true of that AC pump . And may be that is because it is derived from later evolution plastic bladed 440 stuff . Also ? metal or plastic blades, plastic are 3 D shaped , — metal was just bent paddles . I believe I ended up with third party performance pump . Someone had all this in tabular data ,,( maybe that holst site!) not sure if on our site somewhere . Maybe if someone knows more definitive data they can chime in . But can lead to stubborn overheating you will never find . Parts numbers confuse due to crossing now. I also note Mancini selling 7 blade fans pumps and coupling drives that I assume work together and with our later front castings, or aluminum Another whole approach is use a later casting if you encounter this , or just be sure pump reaches in enough . ? issue other way round , too , new casting old pump . Check your old pump carefully against your new one . may be fine , most of the time it must be . Mine was not , still not sure what went on, it was long ago . Maybe rebuild if not the same I thought the question about overflow bottle a good one , stock early caps do not seal well on upper surface , ( they don’t need to) those used with bottle have rubber there . I think stock upper seal was a brass flap? But maybe rubber does not work with old radiators . i’d tend leave all stock , no bottle , — but if you see a 300 overheat , the water gets out around cap not just drain hose . That Says bottle with stock cap or even later bottle cap (?) won’t work (?) or seal to draw back in ? Bottle cap must have a check valve too . Did any 300 have a bottle ? K,L ? Good subject , pump can trip up a rebuild . Sent from my iPhone not by choice Rich: Just a few items that I can perhaps clear up. The proper radiator cap is rated at 16 P.S.I. and has 2 ears. These can be purchased from Atlas Obsolete. They do have an on-line catalog. My K with ram induction, has the full fan shroud and 7-blade thermostatic fan. In regards to water pumps, the regular water pumps have 6 blades, A/C equipped cars have water pumps with 8 blades. When I refreshed my engine compartment, I opted for a Mopar Performance water pump, which has the 8 blades. 300ly bill From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Rich Barber Myron: Many tech questions can be answered by reading the service manual-as posted at www.jholst.net and elsewhere In this case: cooling.pdf (jholst.net) I don’t have a used radiator cap but they are a common item at any auto parts store. Since you asked, in the non a/c 64’s, all engines are specified to have 12-15 psi caps; a/c cars 15-16 psi. In the parts manual there is only one cap for all engines and applications—a 16 psi cap. Go with that. Other interesting stuff: Only a/c cars have the full shroud, 7-blade fan and the silicone-based thermal-controlled fan. Non a/c cars have no shroud and a direct-drive 4-blade fan. All use a 177F-183F thermostat (180F nominal). I’m pretty sure the water pumps are different between a/c and non a/c cars and, perhaps, even between the four different HP engines. There are only four different radiator cores listed for Chryslers in the 1964 parts manual. Yours should have part number 2445647 embossed on the tank—or 2445643 if specified for high altitude. See: Cooling Pages (jholst.net) Readers with more practical experience may give you better guidance. I would inquire of the readers that have added a coolant overflow bottle to their car as to whether a different type of radiator cap is required to allow coolant to cycle back and forth between the overflow bottle and the engine. And whether there is a best practice of removing part of the overflow tube to make a convenient location to attach the tube to the overflow bottle/jar/bag? Rich B. in still hot Brentwood, CA 94.7F @ 3:20 PM PDT. From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Plotkin Associates I am looking for a NOS or exc cond. radiator cap for my 64 300K convertible with a 413, 4 brl engine (no air conditioning). Also need to know the correct PSI for the cap. If anyone has one for sale or knows where I can get, one, your response would be appreciated. Also need to know the correct PSI as have gotten mixed answers. Thanks for any help. Myron Plotkin -- -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/001b01d7aa31%24835e6540%248a1b2fc0%24%40cogeco.ca. <IMG_1113.JPG> <IMG_1133.JPG> For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/A8608775-DCEA-4FC5-A36D-CA096DA67985%40gradyresearch.com. |
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network
Archive Sitemap