Re: {Chrysler 300} Transmission Oil Change 300F

["D.C. Mason" <petergriffinforpresident@xxxxxxxxx>]

As Carl mentioned you can get the nice gaskets from the Chrysler dealer that fit 63-64 727s, but not sure if that is the same for the earlier transmissions.  I also got a deeper pan from the local Chrysler dealer for a 63 and the pan has a drain plug already- so John this would solve that problem of the mess of dropping a pan full of oil.  I don’t have the pan part number handy (or the car anymore) and we’re traveling for a couple weeks but could find and send it later.   Before that,  I also drilled an original pan on a 64 near one side and installed a drain plug and used a bar-shaped block of steel, that I tapped threads into, on the inside of the pan, that the plug tightens up with (rubber gasket too).  This way the long bar shape means the side of the pan will stop the bar from turning so the plug can be loosened and oil can be drained next time.  Crude but works, however the modern pan saves a lot of time.  

v/r,

dave

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 24, 2021, at 3:03 PM, Ray Jones <1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:



Glad I read ALL the replies, as I was about to recommend this dimpling effect. I have been doing this to ALL pans, oil or trans. 

Also, unless doing a  concours restoration, I always add an auxiliary Cooler in front of the Radiator, if it doesn't have one. I did this on my trucks and cars, after the internal cooler leaked ATF into the coolant and made a gooey mess.

I unattach the cooler lines from the Radiator, and run them through the extra cooler. This is really good for a car you take on long road trips.

Ray

On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 1:20 PM Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx> wrote:

My vintage transmission guy took my '55 tranny pan to his steel workbench, put a block of wood under the edge and hammered each bolt hole from the inside out with the round end of a LARGE ball-peen hammer--to make a miniature Belleville spring/dome outward.  This enabled each bolt to put more  pressure on the flat areas between the bolt holes. I liked the idea and it stopped ongoing leaks.  This modification did require subsequent bolt tightening once.  Checking for flatness of the pan edges probably makes sense-followed by careful straightening/alignment, of course.  Even a little hump between the bolt holes might help.

It looks like there have been several good recommendations for gaskets and sealant.  I did have a Jeep transfer case go out when excess silicone sealant accumulated on a screen over the intake to a little lube pump.

Rich B. in Brentwood.

-----Original Message-----
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Kevin Westbrook
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2021 7:11 AM
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Transmission Oil Change 300F

I am preparing for a transmission oil change.
Is it best to use a pan gasket or silicone sealer?
I’m also going to change the speedometer cable and would like to locate the best source.  I’m seeing different lengths listed.  Any tips on this?

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Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an see us. Ya hear?

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