RE: {Chrysler 300} Paint thoughts

Just to share some experiences in trying to match Code TT-1964 Chrysler Roman Red Metallic. The shop scanned a full-size paint chip in a Chrysler paint manual—for convenience as the scanner was not portable. The way that scanner worked was to compare the sample to its database of colors from makes and models around the world. That scanner did not analyze the color and generate a formula. A reasonable match was found and printed out. We did not quite like its match to the paint on the car so the paint guy eyeballed the sample he created until we were satisfied. The scanner also does not analyze for metallic/aluminum powder content. We ended up putting in way more that Chrysler/Ditzler ever did. The result is reasonably close in color (there are a few places under the hood which butt up) and REALLY METALLIC. Too much Al powder I now realize—and we kept cutting back. The clearcoat really makes for a shiny finish.

Rich B. in cool Brentwood. A red car parked on the side of the road

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From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Grady
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2021 12:29 PM
To: pffkllc@xxxxxxx
Cc: ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Paint thoughts

I think old formulations are of no value as all the solvents have changed due to epa, and they all want water base now . Even mercedes paint is water base . Hard to believe . I think the law in Canada , —I have positive experience from there .

Sikkens paint used on MB outstanding stuff , body shops rarely use it , but those that do have a factory computer deal that really works in matching . You get a new formula for old colors , use sample from under taillight .

worked for me , not advocating anything , just info

Sent from my iPhone not by choice

On 27 Sep 2021, at 12:48 pm, pffkllc via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Speaking of paints, does anyone know if the original formulae for ditzler paint codes are available? I remember getting the formula for the 1964 silver mist poly several years ago, but have no

recollection of how or where I got it (age, you know). I now have another code (Ditzler12743 -Lucerne Blue) that I am trying to find but have no idea as to how or where to look. Any help

will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Pete Fitch

-----Original Message-----
From: RON WATERS <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Mon, Sep 27, 2021 11:45 am
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Paint thoughts

I thought the paint on Naif's car looked great. Actually what Tom White probably did was mix a little base color in with the clear. That gave it a single stage look.

Auto body workers have a lot of leeway when painting a car. They can add a touch of orange peel by increasing the gun-to-body distance when spraying. Or they can do minimal buffing after spraying to cut down on the 'mile of gloss' look you see on Corvettes. Or no buffing at all.

I would opt for a two stage paint, mainly because repairs (chips, mostly) are easier to repair. When I put my car back together after paint, I ended up with almost a dozen chips. The car went back to the shop for spot repair. There is no way of seeing them now. It was done with two stage base/clear. If the paint had been single stage, a full panel repaint may have been in order.

Ron

> On 09/27/2021 10:39 AM Dan Plotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>
> I have single stage urethane (Glasurit) on my 61 Savoy. Clear on black looks too greasy on a early 60's car. My friend Naif Makol, former owner of the yellow/black 59 Dodge Super D 500 convertible he restored agonized over the sheen issue and faithful appearance. He mixed clear into the base was happy with that. (search Mecum for John Staluppi's 59 Dodge and check the photos).

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